Review: Terroir Parisien Shanghai

Review: Terroir Parisien Shanghai

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Jean-Georges, 3 on the Bund

Joel Robuchon, 18 on the Bund

Pierre Gagnaire x Capella Hotels,French Concession

Alvin Leung, Bo Shanghai, 5 on the Bund

Wolfgang Puck,Xintiandi

Jason Atherton x Edition Hotel,on the Bund

So, what's your take-away?

When an internationally acclaimed chef decided to open in Shanghai, be it ten years ago or 2017, it's always somewhere fancy, like the Bund or Xintiandi, or at least FFC (Former French Concession). Unless you are Paul Pairet with your ultra exclusive UltraViolet, no one ever cares whether it's by the side of Suzhou Creek or Huangpu River, even Chongming Island might as well do.

Location matters. 

我们先来看一组历史记录:

Jean-Georges,外滩3号

Joel Robuchon, 外滩18号

Pierre Gagnaire x 嘉佩乐酒店,法租界

Alvin Leung, Bo Shanghai, 外滩5号

Wolfgang Puck,新天地

Jason Atherton x Edition 酒店,外滩

在上海吃西餐,是要讲地段的。

国际上有点名气的厨师来上海开店,不管十年前还是现在,还是往外滩、新天地这样非富即贵的上只角里挤,再不然也得去前法租界。当然,如果是 UltraViolet 这样的目的地餐厅,肯定没人管它是对着苏州河还是黄浦江,开在崇明都有人肯去。

▲ 18 on the Bund never lost its popularity

▲ 18 on the Bund never lost its popularity

Earlier this April at the World's Best 50 Award Ceremony in MelbourneYannick Alléno mentioned about expanding to Shanghai, Seoul and Hong Kong. As I learned Terrior Parisien was opening in Raffles City at Zhongshan Park, I couldn't pretend I wasn't supurised.  

Being one of the world's most high-profile French chefs, possessing a definitely charming look (best depicted as French version of Hong Kong movie star Tony Leung) and an approachable air, and the fact that he's one the best chefs of our times, makes Yannick Alléno a star, within and beyond the culinary world. 

四月份去墨尔本参加 Best 50就听 Yannick Alléno 讲起要在上海开店,而当我得知这家叫 Terrior Parisien 寻味巴黎 的店开在中山公园,我也是一记头呆(ai)特了。

Yannick Alléno 何许人也?法国乃至全球当下最重要的厨师之一,坐拥两间米其林三星餐厅,长得和梁朝伟迷样神似,多看一眼要怀孕的那种类型,偏偏做饭还很厉害,无数年轻厨师(和少女心食客)的偶像。也算是中国人民的老朋友了,在北京和台北有过合作项目,北京 STAY揭幕亦红极一时,宣传新书也不忘来上海走一遭。

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For Alléno, 2017 is a good year (and busy), possibly only second to 2007, when he's awarded 3 star for the first time. Le 1947 became the only 3 star entry in France this year, and his 3 star Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen made into the World's Best 50 List for the first time ever, ranked 31 as the highest new entry. Rapidly following the accolades, Alléno shifted his sights to Asia, and soon opened STAY in Seoul and Terrior Parisien in Hong Kong. 

Speaking of Asia dining scene, Alléno, who has had restaurant projects in both Beijing and Taipei in the past, is not unfamiliar to begin with.

Finally, this charming man is eyeing on Shanghai.

2017年对 Chef Alléno 可说是志得意满,先是Le 1947成了法国米其林唯一的新晋三星,巴黎三星餐厅Alléno Paris au Pavillon Ledoyen,则是World's Best 50 2017排名最高的年度新进榜(第31位)。紧随其后,Alléno 马不停蹄地奔赴首尔和香港开出两家新店,STAY Seoul 和 Terroir Parisien 香港。

上海的Terroir Parisien,会是这个概念小连锁的第二家店。Terroir,风土,Parisien,巴黎女人,不是 Parisian 而是 Parisien,感觉微妙,不失为 Alléno 这个道地巴黎人对故土情结和浪漫主义的完美表达。

啊呀,这么帅的一个人,来上海开店了。

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Back to Zhongshan Park, a neighbourhood that I knew very well from earlier years of attending extra-curriculum English classes, lunchbreaks when interning at a nearby office, idling through the huge collection at H&M on the ground floor of the then fashionable Cloud Nine Shopping Mall...I grew up in this hood but I wouldn't deny that Zhongshan Park, a sub-centered, residential area is rather homely, and is after all just some after-work hangout, not likely to be favored by either fine dining restaurants or luxury brands.

"I'd rather go to the bund or Xintiandi if expecting to spend a grand for dinner."

回过头来看中山公园。67路终点站,3号线4号线轻轨站,龙之梦斜对过楼上以前有个凤凰卫视上海站,在那里实习过半年,中午溜达去玫瑰坊吃饭,龙之梦底楼的H&M在我读大学的时候也是很潮的(暴露年龄了),在华师大上补习班长大的我,对中山公园是很有感情的。这个城市副中心,消费总量不小,但也就是大家下了班周末随便吃个饭逛个街的地方,并不招米其林餐厅、奢侈品牌喜欢

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So for the first time ever, I set my foot in this oddly located Raffles City. As I walked across the garden-like central greenbelt surrounded by glass curtain walls of office building, I was immediately welcomed by soft and mellow jazz music, high-end clothes shops and fancy home goods stores. Then I sensed something utterly familiar - gentrification, is the word. Supported by Raffles group known for making bold moves, this gargatuan and increasingly international commercial complex is certainly teeming with ambitions.

Another highlight of Zhongshan Park area has to be the old St. Mary's Hall - Alma Mater of the renowned Shanghainese writer Eileen Chang, of which much has been writen already. Terroir Parisien scored two floors here, neighboring the good old Paulaner Baruhaus and skillfully secluded from the crowd of the mall.

However, for a lengendary chef like Alléno, the name itself is worth checking out. Upon seeing a friend posting a pre-opening event, I headed to this place on a whim, without knowing where exactly it's located in the giant mall complex. 

It was 2 days old with apparently some friend and family happy hour going on. 

(Thank god they let me in anyway.)

Alléno 的店还是要看一眼。头一次踏足长宁来福士,在光可鉴人的商场办公楼玻璃幕墙环绕之下,信步穿过花园式的中庭绿地,耳畔回荡着柔和低沉的爵士乐,目力所及皆是国际一线服饰家居品牌,我嗅到了一丝熟悉的配方:Gentrification(社区升级)。以来福士集团之实力,这个占地庞大、设计规划完善国际化的商业地块,足够有野心,也绝对有潜力。

商场后面是张爱玲母校、原上海圣玛利亚女校建筑群,在这里,Terroir Parisien拿下两层楼面,远离商场人潮,偏安一隅,隔壁邻居是上海人民的老朋友,宝来纳。

就这样,误打误撞地在试营业第二天,连电话、具体位置和餐厅中文名字都搞不清楚的情况下,摸瞎撞上了门

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That's enough for today's in-depth reporting style, here's the quick wrap-up:

After the Hong Kong location, Terrior Parisien Shanghai, second of a mini-chain concept, resembles the former in all ways from decor to menu. Casual Parisian bistro-style, stripped down, no frills, food comes in large portion with minimal plating. 

In other words, it's not an ideal choice if you want to impress someone, nor would you call it a instagram-worthy "Net-Red" restaurant.

好了,杂志深度报道风格就此打住,我扔个结论

从装修到菜单几乎与香港店如出一辙,巴黎街头休闲酒馆菜,不便宜,比较简单的Comfort food,量大,加上不怎么 fancy 的摆盘

换言之,并不是劈情操谈恋爱去的那种店,也不是为了 Insta 或者朋友圈拍照而生的网红餐厅

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Meanwhile, I also see a team of chefs with both local insights and international expertise, a costly but functional open kitchen that produces an impressive array of good dishes that I'd totally vouch for, and great consistency (remember it's still "soft opening" ). Despite it's a little more expensive than expected, Terrior Parisien is still affordable.

I must say it's a supurise that in the 2017 Shanghai, many still draw a linkage between renowed Chefs and so-called Fine Dining experience. Chef Alléno, being one of the firsts to step down from the polish shrine, brining Shanghai this casual yet serious concept with decidedly good food, aim to broaden the views of local diners. While happily adding Terroir Parisien to my regular spots, I have to say I am grateful. 

It was exactly what I loved about Paris: plenty of choices. 

但是,这家店同时也拥有:

具有本地insights和国际工作经验的靠谱厨师团队,一个造价不菲、功能性大于颜值的厨房超过5样让我还想回去吃的菜品,试营业期间极强的稳定性(我去了两次都很好),氛围是真好、就像在巴黎一样,完全不用端着,以及,有点贵但尚在我承受范围之内的价格

在很多人把名厨西餐和fine dining或者高大上划等号的上海,Chef Alléno 放下身段、走下神坛,以一家装修朴素、氛围轻松、菜品过硬的小餐馆,为本地食客打开了另一扇门,这点魄力和远见,我很佩服。

随便吃一口不由感慨,

原来,上海也能吃到和巴黎一式一样的味道。

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I'm going back for...

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Artisanal Pig Snout, Shallots & Parsley Dressing,rmb 68

The affection for heads, offals and blood is definitely something that bonds the French and the Asian (or at least Chinese). Pig Snout rich in collagen, frozen and thinly sliced, drizzled with palatable sweet and sour sauce, was a perfect kick off of the night and a good pair with a glass of Chablis. Throw me a chunk and a bottle of wine, and you can leave me on my own for the night.

传统猪鼻冻配红葱欧芹酱(Artisanal Pig Snout, Shallots & Parsley Dressing),68元。法国人民对头啊内脏和血的爱好,足以让每一个热爱嘌呤的亚洲人热泪盈眶。富含胶原蛋白的猪头肉,冻一冻变啫喱糕切片,酱汁酸甜适口,质地不会太厚,用来开场、搭杯杯卖的 Chablis 正好。给我来一整块,再来瓶酒,我要高兴死了…… 

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Grilled line-caught mackerel with cauliflowers, tarragon and mustard vinaigrette, rmb 98

“Definitely the Mackerel!” My friend and I both locked our eyes on the dish at the second visit. Crispy skin, slight burnt, firm and juicy muscle, coupled with precise manipulation of herbs and seasonings, add up to a paradigmatic pan-seared fish! The pickled cauliflower and romanesco was my favorite touch, tangy and crunchy, not just to balance out the fat but actually gives the entire dish a kick-in. 

烤马鲛鱼伴花椰菜,龙蒿草芥末油醋汁(Grilled line-caught mackerel with cauliflowers, tarragon and mustard vinaigrette),98元。第二次去时,和小伙伴同时看上这一道,“Definitely the Mackerel!”这一块基本上是教科书级别的煎鱼了,鱼皮焦脆,鱼肉紧实多汁,调味和香草的运用也很精准。我特别喜欢作为配菜的腌花菜,酸而爽脆,平衡鱼肉油香,又添质地变化。P.S. 绿色那个是国内菜场比较少见的宝塔花菜 Romanesco,长得比较美,口感上也更有层次~

另外,马鲛鱼特地强调是 line-caught, 指用传统的线勾方式捕鱼,避免了大网捕捞可能导致捕到小鱼苗和大量死鱼问题,整体新鲜度和品质都有提升。

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Warm artichokes salad with mustard and shallots vinaigrette, rmb 158

I was very happy to learn these were ACTUAL fresh artichokes!!! Not perfectly in season (peak time in spring) but still a surprise, it's not from a can! 

微温朝鲜蓟沙拉佐芥末红葱醋汁(Warm artichokes salad with mustard and shallots vinaigrette),158元。看到这个马上问服务生,是新鲜的吗是新鲜的吗?得到肯定回答后,就乐炸天了……虽不是春天但是吃到不是罐头的 Artichokes真的好开心!!!还想吃炸的!旁边的叶子(花瓣)也不要浪费,底下还是有肉的,可以蘸蘸酱咬下来。

▲ a kick in your head

▲ a kick in your head

Poaded Egg cooked in "Frou-Frou" style,rmb 78

It's quite an entertainment...Anyway, I'd call it the most impressive appetizer besides the Pig Snout.

水波蛋,牛肉清汤冻伴芥末蛋黄酱及新鲜香料(Poaded Egg cooked in "Frou-Frou" style),78元。这个菜可能是来搞笑的……好啦,除了猪鼻冻之外,最能让人一下子记住的前菜,非它莫属。

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It's quite self-explanatory, the dish comes with layers of beef broth gelatin topped by well-done red yolk poached egg, and at the bottom lays some green peas and beans that adds a little fun. The overall experience is like gulping down a (huge and solid) Egg Shot. Sort of a dry French wit to name it Frou-frou? Well I didn't get it the first place. 

If any changes are to be made, I would love the beef broth jelly to be a bit softer.

菜名已经很直白了,肉汤冻和接近全熟的红心蛋配上蛋黄酱,底部冻了点青豆和四季豆增加口感,搭配很妙,感觉像是吃了一个Egg Shot,起名叫 Frou-frou 大概也是法国人的冷幽默自嘲吧……反正不解释的话我是 get 不到的。如果一定要挑刺,大概是肉汤冻的质地还可以再软一点。

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Black Pudding Sausge with Potato Puree,rmb 128

After spending a couple balmy summer nights in Basque Country at the French-Spanish border, this is what i've missed the most since my return. This tasty bastard, made from scratch in house, contains a little more meat than the original recipe which does not include anything other than pig blood, fat and spices. Possibly to make local and some non-local palates easier to accpet, but I enjoyed it anyway. It's quite salty. Wine pairing is strongly recommended!

Mashed potato is saturated with good butter, very close to perfection, as manifested by the beloved Joel Robuchon.

巴斯克血肠伴土豆泥(Black Pudding Sausge with Potato Puree),128元。夏天在法国西班牙边境的Basque Country 待了几天,回来以后最想最想最想的就是这个啦!和 Haggis 有一拼的纯种黑暗料理,最传统的做法,是除了猪血肥肉香料其他什么都不加,这一块考虑到中国人民的接受度,肉的比例稍微高了一些,餐厅 Inhouse 自己做的,超级无敌下酒,吃完会上头。

不过血肠呢,我还是比较爱甜口,焦糖洋葱和无花果酱伺候!

旁边的土豆泥也很凶残,黄油奶油恶狠狠地放,比例估计不输 L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon。不过提醒大家一点,这一块血肠比较咸,味道残暴,一定要点酒空口吃不下去的。

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Turbot filet with Duglere Sauce,rmb 268

The Bone-in Turbo is a rare beauty in a Western restaurant. Since my companion was from the industry, I've happily left it to the pro.

多宝鱼配 Duglere 酱汁(Turbot filet with Duglere Sauce),268元。西餐馆吃到不剔骨的多宝鱼,也是十分少见呐!幸好同行的小伙伴是厨师,debone 的桑活就顺理成章地交给职业选手了。

▲ Would be a crime scene if I did it myself

▲ Would be a crime scene if I did it myself

The dish is very authentically prepared yet rarely seen in fine-dining places. Taken its name from the 19th Century chef Adolphe Dugléré. Tomato-based puree is rich and savory, only if you stop calculating how much butter might have been used.

这个做法在高级餐厅不太多见了,以发明人、19世纪厨师Adolphe Dugléré命名,鱼进烤箱前,先在白葡萄酒里汆过,可令肉质特别细滑幼嫩……以番茄为底的酱汁,吃来浓郁鲜香,不断脑补这个里面有多少黄油……

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Hand Cut Black Angus Beef Tartare,rmb 178

Going to a French Bistro without ordering the Tartare is a sin. Well it's a joke. Hand cut, fresh and juicy, just the classic seasoning, always a great pleasure to have. 

I know my mom probably thinks I'm eating dumpling fillings.

btw, Fries were delicious too, I bet they were double-fried.

手切美国安格斯牛肉塔塔伴薯条(Hand Cut Black Angus Beef Tartare),178元。法国小酒馆怎么可以不点塔塔呢!!!经典调味,且并没有那么酸,我爱的手剁款,拍照片丑得要死,是的我妈绝对以为我在吃饺子馅儿

没有入镜的薯条很好吃,强烈怀疑炸了两次。

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St Honoré,rmb 88

Canelé, Croissant and St Honoré, my favorite French pastries. A dessert named after the French Dessert Saint, guaranteed satisfaction. Caramelized sugar-coated puff sitting on mille-feuille, filled with vanilla whipped cream, a real treat for pastry lovers!

圣多诺焦糖泡芙(St Honoré),88元我最喜欢的法国Pastry,排名不分先后:Canelé, Croissant和St Honoré。这款甜品和巴黎那条全是奢侈品的小马路,都是以法国甜点圣人St Honoré命名的……好吧,来头这么大,当然要好吃,糖衣泡芙、千层酥皮与香草籽掼奶油,爱吃黄油褶子酥的人,你们有福了!

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Frozen Lemon,rmb 88

I started cutting this lemon right away and...nah, wrong idea. Thought it was very much like the famous lemon at MMB, where all parts are edible, but the trick here is mostly the jam and lemon grass jelly inside. Palate-cleansing as a great finish.

疯狂柠檬(Frozen Lemon),88元。关于这个柠檬,我是闹了笑话的。上周抄起一把刀就开始切切切,然后发现,并切不动……好吧我还以为跟 MMB 那个超酸爽柠檬一样可以整个吃下去。其实主要就是吃里面的果酱和柠檬草冻。很清口的一道,适合收尾。

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The others

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Snails Baked in Paris mushroom caps, with parsley and garlic butter,rmb 118

I've never been a big fan of snails. I was told the quintessence of this dish to be the texture of the snails and the leftover sauces when you are done with it (yes!), great as a bread dip.

烤巴黎蘑菇裹蜗牛,欧芹及蒜味黄油(Snails Baked in Paris mushroom caps),118元。我来帮你翻译一下,就是蜗牛塞蘑菇。反正我从来都对蜗牛不怎么感冒,这盘的精华其实也主要在旁边的油……拿来蘸面包老嗲了。

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They served us Baguette for bread (authentic parisien way), which performed well in overall texture. But it wasn't good enough to WOW me, I was in hope this could somehow battle the L'Atelier's bread...

餐前面包给的是法棍,口感不错,但没什么太多香气,有点平。我是期待它可以跟 L'Atelier 一较高下的……

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Grand Marnier Baba,rmb 58

Decently made but too soggy……

Grand Marnier Baba,58元。调味 Okay 的,但太湿了……

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And I have complaints about the wine list

Fair selections (for a bistro), but the wines are overpriced (again, for a bistro) as I told the sommelier here. I mean, as a civilized diner and a regular drinker, I will have to order a bottle when dining in but I won't go for the "expensive ones" given that mark-up. Afterall, the fundemental purpose of a bistro is to have people enjoy a good time DRINKING and dining, I do NOT want to bring my own bottle.

最后我不得不吐槽下酒单(最新一版忘记拍了),作为小酒馆随便喝喝,选择是够多了,酒选得也还不错,但我也跟他家的 Somm 坦言,这酒卖得太贵了小酒馆吃饭哪能不喝酒?作为一个吃西餐一定要喝酒的人,我是一定会点酒的(而且基本是瓶),但这样一来我很难点到我想喝的酒。小酒馆小酒馆,不就是为了让大家开开心心喝酒的嘛,我又不想自己带酒~

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Moving forward...

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If you are looking for soemthing under 300 kuai per person, wrong place. The first time here, we paid more than 500 per person; added a bottle of wine the second time, and it set us back around 1800 for 2. 

For the price to pay, it is fair for some to expect a more classy location accompanied by more characteristic surroundings and thoughtfully plated dishes. Put simply, something you would like to share and post in friends circle, facebook and instagram. 

Wrong pick again. I am paying for good food, right vibe and a nice break from the huge selection of instagramworthy-but-not-so-tasty projects across the city. 

As Shanghai sees an increasinly friendly and dynamic F&B scene, talented chefs are bringing to the city more diversity, not only the usual highbrow fine dining experiences. I'm not exactly sure why Alléno picked Zhongshan Park over the others, but I believe he did so with certain confidence. A belief that diners in Shanghai has matured to a certain point to happily pay for the "Good Taste", no frills.  

Chef is in town for the week, there's a good chance that you might run into him at Terrior Parisen. 

这家店其实不便宜,第一次人均500+,另一次点了瓶酒,人均900。

以这样的价格,我们可能会想要更高大上的地段,漂亮的、有特色的环境,还有精心设计的摆盘……简而言之,可以晒。

那么,这家店也许不是最好的选择。Yannick Alléno的这家店,并不想当网红,就想好好做你周五下班,想吃一顿舒舒服服的美好的饭、喝点小酒、放松一下时可以去的地方,就是你在巴黎街头小酒馆吃过的那个味道。

相比去网红店,我更愿意为这样的体验买单。

回上海两年,真真切切感受到餐饮氛围变得越来越好,吃的东西越来越多。全世界的厨师都想来上海,但并不是每个人都会兴师动众把旗舰店搬过来,很多时候,我们会有高端西餐以外,更多元的选择。我想,Alléno之所以选择中山公园开了这样一家 Bistro,也许是觉得,上海的食客群体,已经成熟到可以只为简简单单的“好吃”两个字掏钱了

听说 Chef 这两天在上海,有兴趣的同学可以去看看会不会碰到本人。

 

Terroir Parisien

ADD: #6, H4 Raffles City Changning, 1195 Changning Road

TEL: 021-60881677

AVRG. COST: 500-1000 RMB

 

Terroir Parisien 寻味巴黎

地址:长宁路1195号长宁来福士广场4号古建6号商铺

电话:021-60881677

人均:500-1000元

 

Written by Xiaoyi Liu aka 喜北

Translated by Judy

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