3 Hairy Crab Recipes that Rock the Winter!

3 Hairy Crab Recipes that Rock the Winter!

1. 老吉士天平路店

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Address:41 Tianping Lu,near Huaihai Xi Lu

Tel:021-62829260

Average:rmb 100-200

 

今年注定是个暖冬了(这两天明明还是秋天!),蟹季也注定被拉得很长,是的,这两天的公蟹总算肥了起来!甜甜糊一嘴的日子终于来了!

老吉士天平路店也是我最近一直在安利的餐厅,我的上海菜食堂没有之一。

上个月去吃过一盘蟹粉粉皮,下酒配陈醋吃,心满意足。前几天帮米其林采老吉士(啊这两天采访很快就会放出来哦),吃到一盆蟹膏蟹肉砂锅饭,惊为天人。

并没有照片,因为一上桌就被群众一哄而上干完了!

这道菜的诞生,和老吉士的很多菜一样,是个偶然。经理 Mimo 从石锅拌饭热腾腾的锅气里找到灵感,石锅里抹一圈猪油,放入煮好的米饭开火,米饭吸了油香,恰又结成了一层锅巴,省时省力又口感出众,吃时将油光铮亮的蟹粉倒入锅内,再拌入镇江陈醋,吃得出团团蟹膏,鲜而不腻,回味无穷呀。

Obviously the autumn this year stretches long.  The crab season is also gonna last for quite a while. After the long wait, it's finally time to munch the male crabs, time to get your mouth glued! 

Last month, I happily devoured a plate of crab meat bean sheet jelly with the help of wine and aged vinegar. And just a few days ago, I got blown away again by a very special pot of creab fat & roe rice.

Snatched by my fellow diners in seconds, I didn't even get a chance for photos!

Just like others from Old Jesse menu, the birth of the dish is utterly on a whim. Mimo, the manager, took inspiration from Korean Bibimbap and Hongkongnese Claypot rice. The cook would grease the stone container with lard, fill the bowl with readily steamed rice and then slowly heat it up, allowing the pork fat to melt and seep in. By the time the rice is ready, a layer of rice crust forms, adds some nice crunchiness to the bowl. To serve, Mimo topped the rice with a plateful of glowy hairy crab meat and roe mix(“蟹粉” Xie Fen), and stirred in a decent amount of aged Zhenjiang Chinese vinegar!

 

2. L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

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Address:18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Nanjing Dong Lu

Tel:021-60718888

Average:rmb 1000-1500

Past Reviews:这家米其林二星,我是冲着烤鸡去的

 

除了鸡之外,最近回 JR 就是为了这个。已经安利过一次了,主厨Francky任职澳门三星餐厅天巢时期的创意菜,蟹膏蟹黄意面。

一只公蟹的膏,加上一只母蟹的黄,芝士打成丰盈泡沫,再刨上雪花一样的白松露……每一口都是人民币的幸福感觉!

Besides that chicken, now we have another reason to go back to L'Atelier. The renowned dish chef Francky came up with during his tenure at the three-star Robuchon au Dôme in Macau, creab fat & roe pasta.

Combine the fat from a male and the yolk from a female, whip some cheese into frothy foam, and shower it with the flaky white truffle snow...Hmmm, it feels like chewing 100 kuai bills (in a nice way)!

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除了这道金灿灿的意面,这个同样是金光闪闪、调味颇有东南亚风情的小鲍鱼,也是秋冬新菜里我很爱的一道。

Besides the golden treasure, the glittering gleaming Southeast Asian style small abalone is one of my new winter favorites.

3. Highline

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Address:6/F, 282 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Huangpi Nan Lu

Tel:021-63330176

Average:300-400元

Past Reviews:Spring Menus You Should Check Out Before It's Gone!

 

 

长远不吃 Highline,上个月友人回国约饭去了这里,碰上秋冬新菜第二天。我写过的蓝镜贝,目前因为供货不稳定,处于 Off Menu 状态,去时要问问服务生。

依然稳居上海最美味Clam 榜首。

Long since my last visit, I happened to be dining in on their second day of winter menu release. TheMirror Clam was recently taken Off Menu due to unstable supply, make sure to check with the waiters when the craving strikes. Anyhow, Highline still holds the spot for best western style clams in Shanghai.

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之前我很喜欢的那一盘大虾烩饭,也换了新面孔,变成了季节的大闸蟹烩饭!不变的还是那十足的锅气,和大闸蟹无可匹敌的时令之鲜~ 调味上用到了同属秋日的南瓜,还有甜甜的马斯卡彭奶酪与雷司令酒,以腌渍柠檬的酸度提鲜,甚妙。

Prawn Étouffée, for whom I once fell deeply was as well replaced by the seasonal hairy crab Étouffée. What has not been replaced however, is the same-old satiety, and unparalleled savoriness that hairy crabs possess. Into the flavor profile, seasonal pumpkins are involved, along with sweet mascarpone cheese, Riesling and pickled lemon, who magically lift up the overall umami.

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但当晚击中我的,是这盘烤乳鸽!众所周知,在中国,西式乳鸽是个特别难弄的食材,一不留神就烧过头,食之无味、弃之可惜。这只乳鸽刷上了美国南方的 BBQ 烤酱,酱汁里出其不意地混入波本威士忌,烤制后竟有股堪比中式烧腊的亚洲风味,最嗲的是色面,切开后是漂亮的粉红色,在上海吃到的西式乳鸽里堪称头一遭!

配菜也很花心思,秋柿抹了焦香黄油烤干,与乳鸽同食,尽赏秋日之美。

The best kick of the night, however, goes to this roasted squab! Here in China, Western-style squab or pigeon is such a tricky thing to work with, easily overcooked, even a little stinky. This one an exception. Glazed by Southern BBQ sauce, the thoughtfully incorporated Bourbon Whiskey grants the bird a luring somokiness comparable to Cantonese BBQ. A cut open gives you the sight of pinky flesh - my first perfect squab in Shanghai!

On the side, buttered autumn persimmons are dry-toasted to accompany the caramelized bird, presenting you a miniature painting of the fall.

Winter is Coming...4 Winter Menus to Try

Winter is Coming...4 Winter Menus to Try