Winter is Coming...4 Winter Menus to Try

Winter is Coming...4 Winter Menus to Try

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“Any NEW place to check out lately?” On a regular basis, I'd be answering the same questions for about...eight, nine or maybe ten times a week.

That's why I guess putting up a list like this is still relevant. This list is about OLD restaurants, either covered by me before or been around for a while. 

It's winter time, we did see a few new openings but not many. More often, rather than securing one of those new hottest tables in town, I found myself end up going to the SAME restaurants. I found this place, fell in love with the food, tried everything on the menu, waited it out, then there came the new menu, eat, love, and repeat…

It's just comforting to have a few options in your pocket that never let you down. 

标题熟悉伐。我的话,差不多也就每天也就被问个五六七八九十次吧~

🙂 (MAC的这个emoj比手机看着友好一些。)

呐,这个冬天的大招,终于憋好了!

今天这几家,都是我写过 or 开了有段时间的老店。一来入冬了新店本来就少,二来,比起追新店,我还是更喜欢去吃老店的新菜单。发现一家好吃的店,当然要赶紧滚菜单,滚完再眼巴巴等上新,eat, love, repeat…

关于吃饭,我还真不是个喜新厌旧的人。好不容易吃熟了,哪有那么简单放过你们:

1. The Nest ❤️ 2. PHÉNIX eatery & bar 🦆 3. NAPA Wine Bar & Kitchen 🐷 4. Old Jesse on Tianping Rd 🦀 5. L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon 🦀 6. Highline 🕊 7. Bo Shanghai 🐔 

 

旁边的 emoji,代表这家店最好吃的一道新菜~

本文长,因为菜够刷一整个冬天,欢迎跳着看~

据说,转发的人都会有口福 😋

*Each emoji represent the restaurant's best dish of the season!

**It's long. If you wish to read this through, be patient. 

Feel free to skip, and don't forget to share! 😋

 

1. The Nest

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Address: 6/F, 130 Beijing Dong Lu, near Huqiu Lu

Tel:021-63087669

Average:rmb 400-500

 

Truth is I had never eaten at The Nest until last week. And this is probably one big regret I had in 2017 - I can only hope it's not too late. 

I have to confess, I did hear positive things about it, mainly from a few chef friends,

"Freddy is a good chef"

"If you want a nordic restaurants, go to the Nest. "

I also heard that Freddy, the French chef helming both kitchens at The Cannery and The Nest, came up with a jaw-dropping dish this Spring - stuffing foie gras into two pigeons, and then into a duck - bit like the Thanksgiving Turducken if I didn't get it wrong. 

It's gone before I could snatch a piece 😭. Blame it on The Cannery and the Bund being too far from FFC! 

 

上个礼拜二,是我第一次在The Nest吃饭。

这可能是整个2017年我最后悔的一件事了。

身边多位厨师小伙伴都力荐过 The Nest,

“Freddy绝对是个很屌的厨师”

”我在北欧待了四年,这家做得北欧菜真的靠谱“

……也听说过这位同时执掌 The Cannery 和 The Nest 的法国厨子春天时搞出过一道惊世骇俗的菜:把鸭肝塞进两只鸽子里又塞进一只鸭子里烤,颇有点俄罗斯套娃的意思。

我没顾得上去吃,现在没了 😭。要怪就怪 The Cannery 吧!以为两家店是差不多的概念呢,结果差那么远一刚。

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Venison tartare, it's a winner. Shanghai is not unfamiliar with venison, I did remember a venison beets tartare at Phenix (there's a new version now) last year, but no one in town has ever used the heart. 

In the East and West, venison is considered winter and gamey. But idea of a raw venison heart dish only conjures up the scene of Daenerys swallowing an entire horse heart...(right I'm addicted to GOT. )

Don't panic yet. These New Zealand farm-raised deer do not stink the way wild one does! Somewhat like wagyu, or premium grade tuna flesh & blood mix. Chewy yet crunchy, so much better than expected. 

The dish is wittily served with char-roasted beef marrow. Chewing the fat together with lean meat, the rich aroma lingers long on your tongue.

就凭这一道菜,Freddy 就稳赢了。上海用鹿肉的餐厅不少,早在去年春天,璞丽Phenix 就用一道鹿肉甜菜塔塔俘获过我的心(他家最近又出鹿肉塔塔了等会儿我们详八。)用鹿心做塔塔的人,Freddy 是第一个。

鹿肉,不论中西都是冬日经典野味代表。《红楼梦》里史湘云率众烤鹿肉还算文明的,但说到鹿心,怎么就想起 Game of Throne 里龙妈生吞马心了呢?

别怕,这个新西兰农场的养殖鹿肉,没啥腥膻味,吃口有点儿像生和牛,也有点像等级高的金枪鱼血合肉,脆脆的带点儿韧劲,比想象中好吃多了!厨师很聪明地烤了点牛骨髓,一粒粒香气丰腴、造型挺括的脂肪与精瘦的心肉同食,吃得出炭火味与小匠心,顺便补得要死。

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And we have the pickles, one of the essential neccessities for the nordic to survive harsh winters. Fermentation gives carrots distinct flavors and a nice spike of acidity to the entire dish. And a dash of green powder, namely mixed salt and herbs (presumably dill, fennel and parsley), shall be sprinkled in the following manner:

酱菜腌菜,也都是北地人民必备的基础生活技能,不然冬天都只能喝西北风去了。发酵赋予了胡萝卜独特风味,也令整盘菜有了酸度的支撑。旁边一小撮绿色粉末,是混了香草的盐(估计就是北欧人爱的莳萝茴香意芹),撒盐时请参考以下基本动作:

▲ Never too much.gif

▲ Never too much.gif

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It wasn't a crowd pleaser, but I couldn't stop eathing this. Smoked mussels, salmon roe, barley infused buttercream, a precise portrayal of a decade well spent in Finland (I was told Freddy spent 10 years there). The magic part? It's the pumpkin - it was tender but still held together - more of a Butternut Squash texture as opposed to the regular Chiense pumpkin that easily gets mushy. A beautiful symphony of both earthy sweetness and oceanic savoriness.

这道菜,没什么人中意,我却吃得有点停不下来(都是淀粉呵呵)。烟熏青口,三文鱼籽,还有薏米味儿的 Buttercream,都是厨师在芬兰呆了十年的完美证据。但这道菜最完美之处,在于南瓜:有一点软糯,但还吃得出筋骨,比起一煮就稀巴烂的普通南瓜,更接近 Butternut Squash,地气香甜与海味鲜咸,好一曲海陆协奏。

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One of the best roasted duck I had this year. Delightfully tender (possibly a result of curing), comibing with the intensity of hay smoke, the meat is paired with red cabbage gently that gets you in the holiday mood. 

没什么好多说的,大概今年冬天吃过最完美的烤鸭胸吧。肉质柔嫩(保守估计提前腌过),满满柴草烟熏风味,配的红酒紫甘蓝菜,挺有传统节日氛围,带来一丝意想不到的甜味。

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Winter is Coming. Its a deliciously tangy, berry-flavored beauty sits on a GOT throne demurely like a queen (just look at the shape). To the King of the North!

这酒叫“Winter is Coming”,酸甜可口,满满冬天莓果味,底座的造型特别GOT,To the King of the North!(我国庆节的时候什么也没干,就把 GOT 一口气看完了。)

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My FAVORITE part of a cow, short ribs, precisely medium-well, just right to melt the fat, bring out the aroma while keeping all the juice within the frame.

Besides the beef jus, a scoop of green watercress mustard adds some contrasting woodsiness and acidity. Sort of a diversion from chimichurri that goes perfectly with decent amount of roasted meat. 

一头牛身上我最喜欢的一个部位,没有之一。这一份牛肋骨的熟度把握精准,大约7分熟,刚刚好把油都逼出来,一口咬下去却还满嘴肉汁,绝不像某些店里烤得松松垮垮不成形,好吧,让我们致敬慢烤慢炖慢煮的发明!除了原汤化原食的牛肉酱,一勺绿色的 Watercress 芥末酱,添了些草本与酸度,有点chimichurri的意思,配大油肉正好!

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Much like the heart, this dessert is also quite magical. Taken from the residues of sake fermentation, the sweet and alcoholic rice-icecream tastes just like a sip of chilled nigori; One of my favorite herb, the sorrel plays a big part here - partnered green apple that turned into a sour dip, it serves as a refreshing finish when mixed with cracker pieces.

Ah, a drizzle of Birch Syrup on the icecream must be a killer!!!

Freddy's cooking style is simple and straightfoward, with quality ingredients and just the right technique to showcase his past time and understanding of the nordic culture. Yet everything was extremely well thought out. 

Halfway through, I ran into the man himself "hiding" behind a pillar, watching our facial expressions from a distance (I found it adorable haha)! I then stopped him, used every nice word I know, until he could not take my flatter anymore.

You know, the best diners are never stingy about compliments.

和牛心一样,也是让我特别刮目相待的菜,用制清酒剩下的发酵米做成冰淇淋:就是nigori一样的甜浊酒味儿,猛地想安利厨师试试看酒酿;我爱的北欧名草酸浆草终于有了用武之地,和青苹果一起做成了酸酱,把Cracker 敲碎了拌起来吃,作为一餐收尾,清新、解腻又满足。

啊,忽然想到,如果把 Birch Syrup 滴到这个冰淇淋上,估计很好吃!!!

Freddy的菜吧,不那么艰深,直白、简单、容易懂,但每一道都吃得出他对北欧经历的回顾与致敬;完成度特别高,倘若拿走任何一味调料、或偷懒少做一步,却又定会觉得“少了什么”。

最花心思的菜,都长这样。

中途去了次洗手间,发现厨师悄悄咪咪地 ”ya“ 在一根柱子后面偷看我们的反应(天啊怎么会这么可爱!)……直接截住人家,用尽毕生华丽辞藻,把人从一脸懵逼夸到笑成一朵花。

最好的食客,也绝对不要吝惜赞美之词。

2. PHÉNIX eatery & bar

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Address:2/F, The PuLi, 1 Changde Lu, near Yan'an Xi Lu

Tel:021-22166988

Average:rmb 500-600

Past Reviews:Spring Menus You Should Check Out Before It's Gone!Surely, It's Not the Best Restaurant In the World

 

It's been a while since I talked about this one. After successfully securing his one Michelin Star, chef Wilson at Phenix finished the construction of the new menu by the end of October. 

It's been a month. You know it only gets better. 

To sum up the changes: all-time favorite beef tartare is one (💔), while lobster pasta and the appetizer frog leg both hang on. Duck breast, now evolved into a very special duck sausage! A few desserts joined the familly too, among which stands a piece of Mille-feuille, possibly one of the best in Shanghai. 

And here we go:

春季菜单之后,也是有段时间没好好八我的西餐食堂了……最新情况是,今年稳稳地保住了一星,厨师10月底就把菜单换好了,经过一段时间调试,发挥已经很稳定了。

简单总结一下变化:你们都很爱的牛肉塔塔被换掉了(心碎💔),龙虾意面还在,前菜的蛙腿也在。在菜单上留了快一年的鸭子,这次变了香肠。多了几个甜品,有一块千层酥(拿破仑),在我心中和 Le Bec 家不分伯仲。

流水账走起:

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Vanilla icecream? No, the best butter in Shanghai. This house-churned, soft and aromatic butter is literally served with an icecream scoop...just don't eat it without the bread. 

You will ask for that extra bread, as I always do. 

香草冰淇淋?淀粉大杀器!目前上海最好吃的黄油了,没有之一。服务生会拿个冰淇淋缸子上来当场蒯一勺子(推荐拍小视频晒圈),并非常字正腔圆地告诉你“it's house churned.”

放心吧你会要第二碟面包的,我每次都是。

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Lobster chips?

 

这什么鬼……龙虾片?

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Revealing itself is the Mussel Escabeche. The chef carefully turned beef tendon into "lobster chip" (exactly what I remembered from childhood), break it down as the "cracker" to go with the clams.I'm totally into the crunchy texture of picked carrot, but some complained about it being too stiff.

Definitely the most interactive dish on the menu, with the only "pain" being a handful of grease when you are finished...

醋渍蛤蜊(Mussel Escabeche),厨师很开心地把牛蹄筋变成了一张硕大的龙虾片,对的,就是小时候那些五颜六色的膨化龙虾片好吗!掰下龙虾片,啊不,牛蹄筋片当Cracker盛来蛤蜊,然后塞进嘴里……

我特别喜欢腌渍胡萝卜那个脆生生的口感,不过也有人嫌它硬。

唯一的缺点是吃好以后会满手油。

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Two soups, one clear and the other hot and thick.

The clear soup has been on since summertime. Two pice of raw langoustine, cushioned by some bone barrow a la Royale, tastes like supple and eggy Japanese tofu. Topped by flower petals, drops of puffed pearl barley and consomme made with langoustine head, namely the soup...delicate conception much reminding of the style of Japanese-French cuisine.

Quote from friend: "It fits the Michelin style quite well."

I'm more for the onion soup. Far from the traditional French style, the soup is instead an assembly of daikon, savory mud crab, and rice...almost a bowl of crab porridge. What a cozy winter comfort! 

两个汤,一清一浊,还有就是上面那张是我用手机拍的……

清汤从夏季菜单沿用至今,海鳌虾刺身,下面垫的是皇家牛骨髓(Bone Marrow a la Royale),软软的日本蛋豆腐口感,撒上花瓣和膨化薏米,最后淋上海鳌虾脑熬煮的精华汤汁…意境出众,像是日本人会做的法餐。

借一位饭友的话,非常符合米其林的想象。

厨师表示,也就研究了两三个月吧。

我倒更中意下面那碗浊汤。热腾腾的洋葱汤,不是传统法餐里的大油酥皮做法,白萝卜片,鲜咸的青蟹肉,好像还有米……泡开了那就是一碗蟹肉粥啊!!!天冷的时候来一碗暖胃,太色艺了。就是稍微有点咸。

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Beef tartare is out, in place is this venison tartare 2.0. Nicely shaped, the Jerusalem artichokes and dried portobello mushrooms on top imitate the shade and texture of a tree trunk, with the clump of watercress plays the new shoots from this old tree, together a casual sketch depicting a forest; On bottom sits the Venison Tartare (New Zealand breed is not gamey), elaborated by some Jerusalem artichoke puree and cocoa pwder, visually boast wintertime earthiness; A little trick here is the shallots marinated by beetroot juice buried among the flesh, such a hard exercise for your eyes. 

I have to confess i still miss my beef tartare...

顶个蛋的牛肉塔塔不卖了,取而代之的是这个茹毛饮血的鹿肉塔塔2.0。造型做得很漂亮,菊芋与波特贝拉蘑菇干,仿造出树干的纹理与色泽,一蓬 watercress 则似老树新芽,随手描画,一派森林意象;鹿肉塔塔没有过多调味(也是新西兰鹿肉,反正没膻味),搭上很有大地风味的菊芋香草酱和可可粉, 秋冬的 earthy 风味油然而生;一个小心机,是藏在肉里增味的红葱头被红菜头汁腌过,肉眼很难分辨 ~

其实我很想说,还我牛肉塔塔……不许告诉厨师。

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You probably remembered that beautiful chunk of black cod garnished by paua abalone. Things have changed. Ever since this red sea bream came out, I haven't ordered the black cod. The Barigoule sauce, a classic made with mushroom and artichokes, surprisingly goes very well with the fish. Squid "noodles" were tender yet springy, adds another layer of texture. But the best part still lies in the fish itself: 

The technique of pouring boiling oil over and over onto a piece of raw filet is brought from Asian cooking, namely Chinese and the Korean. In the end the scales become crispy and edible, while the meat remains tender and juicy. A pinch of piment d’Espelette gives an extra kick to the entire dish. 

吃上了这个真鲷以后,我果断抛弃了曾经很爱很爱的黑金鲍鳕鱼。酱汁很有趣,是法国人专烧朝鲜蓟的经典方子Barigoule,酸甜开胃,配鱼肉口味绝佳。鱿鱼被处理得很软烂,似一条条弹牙面条,口感特别。但这道菜的 high 点,在鱼本身:

借鉴中餐做法,整块生鱼不断淋上热油,直至鳞片翻起,鱼肉也已烫熟……撒,这不就是脆鳞鱼嘛。再来一小撮南法红辣椒碎,些微辛辣,更好地带出整道菜的浓郁鲜香。

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Give it a bite and you just won't be over it.

And finally comes my favorite dish!

Pekin Duck...neck sausage!!!

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Apparently not your typical duck neck. In a distance, this monster looks like a giant leg from a suckling pig. You need at least 3 people to share! Served only made to order, this thing is to die for. A skin-on, de-boned Peking duck neck filled with duck leg meat, foie gras and spices, rubbed with honey and salt then roasted to perfection. The cutting service performed at the table, almost like a sacred ritual, is the final step to build up the expectation and appetite!

完全不是你认知中的那种鸭脖子,远远看去壮得跟乳猪腿似的,必须得3个人及以上才能吃完!本来其实是有前菜分量的,后来主厨觉着鸭子还是现烤的好吃,就变 made to order 了。

关于这道菜,基友很得意:北京鸭脖子去骨留皮,填入鸭腿肉、鸭肝和香料,外皮抹上蜂蜜和盐,烤好后,桌边现场表演切,极具仪式感!其实也颇有点八宝葫芦鸭的味道呢。

▲ A quality shot of Michael

▲ A quality shot of Michael

It comes with an array of add-ons for every taste, duck jus, fig jam, and mustard. A plate of parsnip puree (less starchy!) is just as good as the guilty pleasure of mashed potato. 

My fav goes to the fig jam. The crispy skin steals the essence of a decent Peking Roast Duck, and the caramelized aroma of toasted honey seeps deep into the flesh. Silky liver pate melts right into the firm, plump leg muscle - just one more, one more stroke of the sweet and sour fig jam - you'll never get enough of this. 

给了几种不同的佐料选择,满足不同口味偏好:鸭子汁,无花果酱,芥末酱;为了让你健康点儿,没给土豆泥,给了一盘教科书级别的 Parsnip Puree(吃的时候默念,这是萝卜这是萝卜这是萝卜没什么淀粉的)。

我最喜欢的配置当然是无花果酱啦!!!鸭皮颇有北京烤鸭风骨,烤蜂蜜的焦糖气息入木三分,坚实饱满的腿肉与肥美可人的鸭肝,再刷上一层酸甜的果酱,胆固醇和肉的盛宴,就是这样任性!

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The rose, as many have seen in my Wechat Moments, is an reincarnation of a traditional British suet pudding,possibly at its highest and prettiest level, a blooming red rose with petals made from red anjou pear. Give the densly, beautifully shaped petals a shower of crème anglaise, then, Boom! 

In my opinion, it's a very suitable dessert for confession of love than that dessert from Sir Elly's

(Guys, I wanna make sure you understand this!)

我觉得,比 Sir Elly's 那个甜点 更适合示爱和求婚。

(哎在看的所有男的,你们 get 了伐!)

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For a girl like me, you'd probably need to go for a slice of this green Mille-feuille.

This is Version 4.0. And it was born from a coincidence: I was having this perfect piece of mille-feuille from Le Bec, deeply impressed and shared with Michael. Then came the confident reply from a former pastry chef:

"Easy. I can make it too."

First sample was literally ready on the second day. The jelly made from Green Chartreuse is probably the only thing that never changed...the greatest challenge always comes from the pastry. After months of extenstive adjustments, the perfect mille-feuille is right here.

Speaking of Mille-fuilles, there are only two options in Shanghai:

PHENIX or Le Bec.

But 要讨我欢心的话,还是这块千层酥比较靠谱。

大概是4.0版本了吧。故事是这样的:我偶然吃了块 Le Bec 的千层酥,特地发给主厨并大肆赞赏,收获了一个做甜品师出身的傲娇主厨如下回复:

“这个很简单的,我也会做啊。”

第二天就有样品了……绿查特酒(Green Chartreuse)的啫喱是一直没改过的,后来还在奶油里加了糖渍柠檬皮增加风味和口感,但最难最难,还是这块酥皮,一直都不够脆……前前后后调了3、4个月,现在,终于可以毫无遮拦地推荐给你:

这块和 Le Bec 的千层酥,我一段时间不吃就会想。

 

3. NAPA

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Address:South Bund 22, 2/F, 22 Zhongshan Dong Lu, near Jinling Lu

Tel:021-63180057

Average:rmb 500-600

Past Reviews:What Kind of Restaurant Is Worth a Second Try?Spring Menus You Should Check Out Before It's Gone!

 

This was the very first Fall/Winter menu I tried this year. Chef Francisco, diligent as always, completed the mission by the end of September. Being the only non-newcomer of the 6 western restaurants (the others being Le Comptoir, Akme and the like) added to the Michelin reconmmendation list, it's a little pity NAPA didn't score a star.

I've tasted four menus from Chef Francisco so far, and this fall menu is the best. Blind tasting, you'd probably think it's done by a Spanish chef - the ingredients, the techniques, and the creativity flow - all being reflections of his years at Mugaritz, elBulli and Japan. Some of the dishes, from my perspective, are solid Two-Star standard.

Amuse bouche,besides their classic eggyolk cauliflower ham mousse and genomic clam crackers, this time an additional maple leaf made of mushrooms. Very autumnal.

其实,所有的秋冬菜单里,这是我吃到最早的一张,勤奋的厨师宝宝 Francisco 早在9月底就把东西都调好了,手脚太麻利!这么说吧,这家今年没拿一星真是很可惜,6家上推荐榜单西餐里唯一一家老店(其他5家都是新店),也算是很说明问题吧。

到现在为止,吃过智利厨师的第四张菜单,也是我认为水准最高的一张。如果盲品,很可能会以为是哪个西班牙主厨的作品:食材、技巧、创意,无不折射着他在 Mugaritz 和 elBulli 的经历。有几道菜呢,是非常 solid 的二星出品。

Amuse bouche ,除了蛋黄花菜火腿慕斯和扇贝分子脆片,这次又多了一张菌菇做的🍁,很有秋天的感觉。

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I've seen quite a few recipes this year involving cooked oysters in appetizers. This formula of oyster + root plant + acidity is similar to the one with Vichyssoise from Odette, only that celeriac is much healthier. While caviar atop provides just the right amount of savoriness, it fosters a harmonious contradiction to the delicate hue of yuzu in the foam. I like to give the juicy oysters a cut or two, but some people think to swallow it as a whole gives you purer joy and more complete flavor profile.

今年用熟生蚝做前菜的人真是不少,6月在 Odette 吃过生蚝配 Vichyssoise,这道有点异曲同工,只不过土豆换成了更健康的 Celeriac,加入少少柚子平衡酸度;鱼子酱的点缀恰到好处,鲜咸味与这块肥美生蚝相映成趣;整道菜口感丰腴,层次鲜明,我是喜欢生蚝切两刀,也有人觉得“一口吞好爽”,能更全面地捕捉到生蚝的全部风味。

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Fish cake? Mushroom? Nah. Guess that? it's Abalone. Plating is pretty zen inspired, blanched ultrathin Australian abalone slices lie neatly on the plate, under which is an intriguing blend of herb puree that brings out a long-lasting clean finish.

A think layer of LARDO atop, the finest translucent-looking Italian pork fat, melts readily onto abalone slices, adding to the chewiness, delicacy and satisfaction; while sweet seaweed sauce on the side is a heavy stroke, the sweetness balances well with salinity, and bolsters the overall oceanicity to a greater level.

My favorite dish in the entire menu. But why on earth has emoji not featured abalone still?

第二次带小伙伴去吃,我让他们猜这是什么,答案五花八门。有人答鱼饼,也有人说是菌菇……其实是鲍鱼。摆盘颇具日式禅意,烫熟的鲍鱼片得极薄,层层叠在混合香草泥上,一片鲜咸的意式猪油(Lardo),薄如蝉翼,滋味鲜咸可口,与鲜味集中但无甚咸味的鲍鱼同吃,不是那种劈头盖脸、直白易懂的重鲜,而需要人细细在舌尖摩挲,个中微妙“弱滋味”;褐色的甜海藻酱,是摆盘上的点睛之笔,也提升了整盘菜的“海洋属性”。

整本菜单里我最爱的一道菜。然而 emoji里并没有鲍鱼的图标!!!

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Marrying seafood to land ingredients is all the rage in some big name restaurants today, even including Paul Pairet, but throwing the entire piece of foie gras in a pond of consomme is rare, and the most inspiring!

I'm not a big fan of foie gras, not usually (I mean, hey, cholesterol bomb! ). This one is an exception. 

Foie gras, wet?

The usual heavy gravy is replaced by Iberico Jamon dashi. On the side, little chunks of smoked eel tucked under slices of herb leaves give you a bit of light smoky strike. Unlike the subtleness of the terderloin course, the dish binds umami from all ingredients, exploding right onto your tongue.

和鲍鱼喜爱程度不相上下的一道菜,就是这个高汤鹅肝。海陆食材搭配,今年吃到包括 Paul Pairet 在内好几个厨师都在做,把一整块鹅肝硬生生撂上台面的倒是很少。熟悉我的人都知道,我其实不怎么爱吃煎鹅肝(都是胆固醇啊胆固醇),但这块真的是例外,每次都三口两口吃完,连汤汁都喝得一滴不剩。

撒?鹅肝?浸在汤里?

恩,以伊比利亚火腿和鲣鱼Dashi 代替传统法餐的甜口厚酱汁,鳗鱼肉丁的烟熏味与浓郁的火腿香,平衡了鹅肝的肥腻,相比前一道的玩味微妙,这一道就是铺陈直白的满足、鲜到落眉毛。

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As Spanish as the earlier dishes can be, this one is even more straightforward. Medium-cooked Iberico tenderloin boasting the round and nutty hazelnut flavor, coupled with the sweet, tender flesh. And the idea to combine with sea urchin is almost inexplicable! I like to do it this way: spread the mashed potato all over the pork, top it with a little piece of uni using the tip of your knife. I just CAN'T have enough!!!

When uni is short, the lobster version always works equally well.

恩,看了几道菜,想必你已经看出了非常明显的西班牙元素。这一道就更是不加掩饰,5分熟的西班牙伊比利亚猪里脊,有美好的坚果香气与细腻肉香,与海胆的组合,真的很奇妙!我喜欢的吃法,是将吸饱了黄油的土豆泥抹在猪肉上,再用刀撇一点海胆,啊,不够吃啊!!!

在海胆供货不佳的日子里,还有一个龙虾版本也很不错。

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And finally, the familiar-looking dessert. Since springtime, the garden has also come to another point of its life cycle, the fall. Transluscent leaves from mango were simply gorgeous, both to the taste and for instragram :D

恩,这个长得很眼熟的甜点,风水轮流转到了秋天版本,芒果做的透明叶子,颜值担当!

 

4. Bo Shanghai

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Address:5 on the Bund, 6/F, 20 Guangdong Lu, near Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu

Tel:021-53833656

Average:rmb 2000-2500

Past Review:讲真,这家店没你想得那么糟

 

A year has passed since I last dined at Bo Shanghai. During the months, the Chef couple changed the menu twice, and shifted the concept from "Big Eight Chinese Cuisines x French" to "x Italian". Since the recipes are still being adjusted, I'd only talk about the dishes I particularly liked.

One obvious change, they started to serve a lot more bread!

Me being on a low carb diet,  I still couldn't resist the temptation of this peculiar Sausage and fermented mustard greens Focaccia, served with mustard greens olive oil....

不知不觉,距离上次吃 Bo Shanghai 居然已经过了一年。这一年,主厨 Couple 换了两次菜单,这一次终于从八大菜系 x 法餐的概念,变成了意大利菜。其实还在调试阶段,先写我比较喜欢的菜好了!

并且,他们开始给餐中面包了!!!

然而我竟然开始 Low carb diet 了!

梅干菜腊肠佛卡夏配梅干菜橄榄油……真的好喜欢这个橄榄油啊!

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Then the Amouse Bouche came up, a paper bag placed right in front of me along with a couple eerie capsules...as Chef DeAille happily explained "People at our age grew up eating crispy instant noodles." Twist open the herb-filled capsules and give the noodles a powder shower, following a nice shake is the flavor recall of scallion oil soy sauce noodles.

What a deluxe crispy instant noodle experience! And don't forget to raise your head, shovel into your mouth the last bit of seasoning and crumbs. It's always, always the holy moment of every noodle-eating time.

上来先发了个纸袋子,还有几个小胶囊……药不能停的意思吗?主厨 DeAille 笑着解释说,发现我们这个年纪的人,小时候都是吃干脆面长大的,把装了香草调料的药丸拧开,倒进纸袋里摇一摇,就可以吃到,葱油拌面味的干脆面。

怎么说呢,真是好豪华的干脆面啊!不要忘记最后脖子一仰,剩下的调料和碎面倾入口中的刹那,才是每次吃干脆面最期待的时刻呀!

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In front of you, a classical Chinese headboard holds up an inky stone plate, on which lies a flat piece of Wagyu Carpacio. The "Hunan" appetizer comes diverse in flavors with grinded powder from chopped chillies and Chinese roasted olives, and pieces of popped beef tendon chips (again!), and a generous scoop of caviar to luxe it up. A more exciting invention, compared to last year's double chilli oyster.

复古的中式床榻,铺了墨黑的石板,上面躺了一张和牛 Carpaccio,这一道”湖南“,味型十分丰富,将剁椒和中式拷边橄榄研碎成粉末,又用泡椒制成蛋黄酱,一勺分量慷慨的鱼子酱,配上两朵炸成花的牛蹄筋(哦哦哦牛蹄筋龙虾片再次出现了!),比起去年湖南的双椒生蚝更加有趣。

其实,我觉得不要鱼子酱也已经够欢快了!

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An intriguing palate cleanser served in a Chinese tea bowl, adapted Bloody Mary with Lemoncello!

中间的清口小点心做的很有趣,中式茶碗里剩的居然是以意大利柠檬酒 Lemoncello 为底的 Bloody Mary。来啊干了这碗血腥玛丽!

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Inspired by the houshold dish “Spicy Boiled Fish”, the "Sichuan" is simply a charming savor!! Despite the luxuriant swap to Grouper, the costal town favorite jellyfish is also an honest reflection of Sichuanese yearning for the sea....

Tangled "vermicelli noodles", in fact, are frozen jelly from Sichuan smoked sausages to supplement a funky kick. But the most memorable part was the soup I bottomed up: clearly no absence of the very essential red chilli oil, but unexpectedly coupled with Salsa Verde, making it a greenish broth that quenches your soul.

这道四川就真的非常有趣了!!!!!灵感来自家喻户晓的水煮鱼。用石斑鱼做已经很奢侈了,配上上海人喜食的海蜇,很真实地反映了四川人民对海的渴望……至于盘起来的”粉丝“,则是四川腊肠汤冻成的”面条“,吃口也是蛮有趣的。但最好玩的一定是最后被我喝了个精光的汤底了:四川人的命根子红油是一定不能少的,出其不意地配上 Salsa Verde 的绿香草汤,这一汪绿色的水煮鱼汤底真叫人意犹未尽。

第二天中午我就叫了小蛮椒麻辣烫……

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"Guangdong" this time, is represented by a squid ink rissoto. Brought up in Hong Kong, Chef DeAille was always fond of squid from her childhood dim sum experience. Her mission here is to incorperate squid, a cliched cheap ingredient, into fine-dining. 

The presence of pickled okra turned out to be a marvelous flavor booster - thanks to not just the sourness, but also the crunchy and funky texture of it. The rice was not al dente as the chef later explained, most of the local diners still complain about the rice being undercooked. It's the moment we exchanged an awkward smile.

广东的部分,这一次来了个墨鱼汁烩饭。DeAille 说,作为香港人长大的她,外食午茶,总是对鱿鱼钟爱有加。但鱿鱼在高级餐厅中却素被视为”低贱食材“,她希望用这道菜,让人看到”便宜食材“的可能性。

整道菜里最妙的应该是腌过的秋葵,黄芥末一般酸得令人印象深刻,更得益于秋葵本身的奇妙质感,一咬下去,爆出酸酸的汁液,整口饭都活了过来。当天的饭并不是 al dente 的口感,问了主厨才知,大多数前来用餐的国人依然会觉得这是饭没烧熟,也只好朝他们尴尬笑笑。

翌日,去用餐的好友发来短信告知,今天的饭已经变 al dente 咯。

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The ultimate peak of the dinner, was the closing dish "Dezhou Chicken" representing "Shandong"!

I'm not overreacting, but it's the best chicken I've had this year. So good that I'd rather have given up all the above courses, in trade for this chicken in the size for four.

Carefully sorted one-year-old three-yellow Chicken from Zhejiang are acquired for legs only. Peeling the skin and fat off together, Sous Vide the remaining flesh, and marinate with spices and stuff them back to the "skin pockets". Then comes the critical step, where oil pouring are involved to replicate a similar crunchiness to that of Roasted Soy Chicken on the outside, while preserving the tenderness of the meat...

You can tell how much work went into it by one bite. 

A scoop of Chinese herbal medicine Angelica offered a strong lift to the savory finish. Although I've never tried Dezhou Chicken, I would love to hear feedbacks from anyone who know about it. The sour and crunchy fennel salad topping, using the method of preserving pickle cabbage, is a level up from the Northern fermentation habits. 

Even with the mere thought of it, my mouth would not stop watering. (¯﹃¯)

整顿饭的高潮,出现在这道代表山东的”德州扒鸡“。

不夸张地说,应该是我今年吃过最好吃的鸡了。我真的是情愿前面所有东西都不吃,来换四人份的这个鸡……

精心挑选的浙江一年龄三黄鸡,取两只大腿,鸡皮连带脂肪完整片下(绝对不能破!),腿肉的部分慢煮处理,然后重新和香料一起塞回皮囊,再用类似烤鸭/烧鸡的做法,经过拉油,让皮达到独特的脆度和油感,而里面的肉还能保有慢煮的柔嫩口感。如此一来,就不会出现大部分烤鸡尴尬的场面:皮是够脆了,但肉也柴了。

这点心思,我真的是很佩服。配上放了当归的德州扒鸡酱,我特别想听吃过德州扒鸡的人来说说吃后感,反正我是挺喜欢的。上面一坨茴香菜,借鉴了腌白菜的技巧,杠杠的。

现在想起来还是满满的口水 (¯﹃¯)

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Apart from the above mentioned restaurants, a few others have been working diligently on a menu updates. Such as this sinfully delightful Cheese Curry Omlete Rice from my favorite Japanese Izakaya Ifuku at Plaza 66. 

除了上面说的这几家餐厅,其实还有很多我喜欢的餐厅也上了新菜,譬如上面这盘罪恶爆棚、香气满满的芝士咖喱牛肉蛋包饭,就来自我非常喜欢的井福日料恒隆新店。

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The best pizza in Shanghai (undoubtedly) Homeslice Pizza has also unveiled some new flavors. Unfortunately I haven't got a chance to try...well at least I had a bite of the classics at the DMBA afterparty, still the BEST PIZZA IN TOWN! 

上海 Pizza 界良心担当的 Homeslice Pizza 也推出了新口味,但我还没有机会尝试。上上周 DMBA After Party 的时候倒是吃了经典香肠款,再次确认他家是上海最好吃的 Pizza 没有之一……

 

So, what's your favorite winter menu so far this year?

 

Written by Xiaoyi Liu aka 喜北

Translated to English by Judy

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