An Incomplete Guide to Roasted Chicken in Shanghai

An Incomplete Guide to Roasted Chicken in Shanghai

Admit it, roasted chicken is a trend in Shanghai. 

Shanghainese people had always considered chicken special. During my childhood and early adolescence, while Zhen Ding Chicken (振鼎鸡, a local brand of poached chicken with social sauce) and chicken congee were still relevant, every Shanghai kid  my age had a vague memory of dinners involving roasted chicken

This chicken, usually appeared on dinner table on the nights your parents had to work overtime (or simply didn't feel like themselves). Stop by at the nearby grocery store on his or her way home, get a whole chicken, all you needed was to pan fry some Shanghai Green and a tomato fried egg (a local favorite quick dish), in 15 mins, dinner was ready. 

上海人对烤鸡,是有情结的。

在我的青少年时代,振鼎鸡横霸天下、鸡粥店风靡一时;几乎每一个上海小囡的晚餐里,都有过一只烤鸡。这只鸡,往往出现在家长加班(或犯懒)的夜晚,去超市拎一整只烤鸡,随手炒样素菜,再来个番茄炒蛋,一顿夜饭就对付过去了。

人小力气大,喜欢徒手撕鸡,从前胸开撕,咵嚓一声掰成两折;掰下鸡大腿先啃,再片下有点干的洁白胸肉,一丝一缕,不沾酱汁也吃得津津有味;不过,最满足的瞬间,是吃皮,烤鸡之精华所在,味道最浓,一口气吃一大片,舔舔手指头,回味无穷呀。

Time flies. As we care more and more about food quality, now in the life of many of us, the roasted chickens sold in grocery stores and "supermarkets" were long gone. It's past tense. 

My Butchery was the first rotisserie (as part of the butchery) that gained a reputation for its roasted spring chicken. And the rotisserie theme somewhat caught on earlier this year. Compared to the good old grocery store chicken, the bird has obviously envolved over the years

Better looking packging, delicate side dishes, born photogenic and instagramworthy...meanwhile, the down-to-earth street bird has also made its way into some higher-end institutions, becoming a new favorite of the picky fine dining lovers. 

credit to Timeout Shanghai

credit to Timeout Shanghai

时过境迁,吃东西越来越讲究的现在,超市、大卖场里的烤鸡,似乎已不再属于这个时代。

从乌鲁木齐路的My Buthery算起,上海的精品烤鸡“路边摊”好像越开越多了;比之小时候的超市烤鸡,这些烤鸡看起来的确高级不少,好看的包装,精致的配菜,适合一群人一起吃,还特别上相;与此同时,地气十足的街头烤鸡也登堂入室,成了高级餐厅的盘中宠儿。

 

It's great to see the roasted chicken we grew up with finally picks up again. 

那些年我们爱过的烤鸡,终于火了。

其实我们吃的不只是烤鸡,更是回忆。

 

I got a little reputation for my love with chicken dishes. At a dinner party this past Thursday, a friend actually called me "the blogger obcessed with chicken". I guess it's probably true. Among all the articles I wrote, the attention paid to chicken was way more than any othe food. 

For all the chickens I've had, I'd like to share with you four roasted chickens in Shanghai. 

What? Only four?

我这个人爱吃鸡,也算是出名了。身边的朋友吃了好鸡,总会记得来安利我。也有人说,我是“最爱写鸡的公众号”,真是一点不夸张,在 我所写过的文章 里,有关鸡的篇幅远远超过任何一种其他食物。

吃了那么多鸡,今天聊聊上海的4只烤鸡。

神马?为什么只有4家店?

 

Honestly, with Shanghai being such a big city, roasted chickens are plenty. But there's no way I'd eat everything regardless and give you a blacklist. All I could do is to summon the good chickens I've encountered in my own limited experience. 

The standards as following: 

A great chicken is the basic, you need a world class rotisserie oven as a plus. Marination takes time but seasoning should not cover the natural flavor of the chicken. Golden rouge in color, never overcooked or too oily, with an enchanting aroma, sweet, firm and lots of juice! 

 

Last but not least, the sauce, the side dishes, also leave a strong impression thus very important. 

I believe in "you get what you pay for", there's very few exceptions, especially when it comes to food and beverage. Go to the grocery sites, check the prices of a red label or NPG chicken between 1.6 to 2 kg, it's not cheap. Def more than 100 kuai. 

诚然,上海那么大,烤鸡那么多。胃容量有限,没办法把所有烤鸡,难吃的好吃的都扫一遍,然后告诉你这个难吃、那个不好,我能做的,就是在我有限的经验里,推荐给你我认为靠谱的好鸡。

烤鸡这件事,我实在挑得很,再来重复一下标准:

好鸡是基础,烤制工艺也有讲究,腌制不能抢去鸡肉本味,色面要烤得恰到好处,吃口不柴不腻,皮香肉甜,鸡汁丰沛,是为一只优秀的烤鸡!最后,搭配什么酱汁、小菜,同样马虎不得。

说到配菜,有人无所不用其极的上了鹅肝……而且还不止一家!!!

好啦,我相信一分价钱一分货,在吃这件事上,更是少有例外。大部分靠谱的生鲜网站上,比较适合做烤鸡的1.6至2公斤左右红标整鸡或NPG整鸡,在118至160元之间。

Good chicken does not grow on steroids, hormones and antibiotics; the life span is much longer than 21 days in a dark, cold cage with very limited moving space. They eat well too. Some of them even enjoys the luxury of purified water. 

That's what makes it so tasty. 

I would rather not talk about spring chicken. In short, it's not my thing. 

这样的鸡,不打生长激素,不用抗生素,走地散养,不会一辈子只挤在暗无天日的小笼子里,哦对了,它们吃得也很好,更有甚者,喝得都是纯净水。

鸡长得好,才会好吃呀。

另外,春鸡(童子鸡)不在本次讨论范围之内。调味方,以法式香草、大蒜腌制为主,烤制方式,这次也就局限于转炉和明炉吧。

最后quote一位烤鸡艺术家的话:烤好鸡,是个艺术。

辣么,呼朋引伴,唤醒童年の回忆,撕个鸡吧

拉到最后,有总结陈辞


01. DODU

Location:French Concession

"Web-red" rotisserie, the grass root hero of FCC

02. HEAT FRENCH ROTISSERIE & BISTRO

Location:West Nanjing Rd. 

Upscale rotisserie with a trendy, bourgeoisie vibe

03. CHOP CHOP CLUB

Location: The Bund

The only chicken roasted on a string

04. L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON

Location: The Bund

The Hermes of roasted chicken

特别感谢吃鸡小伙伴:上海女郎、大头死变态、ZZ、干脆面、Kino、Kamilla、杨光、甜牙齿二人组、红豆、肉皮麻麻、Jenny Rong、GraceSu


  01. DODU

"Web-red" rotisserie, the grass root hero of FCC

First open:Jan 2017

Source: Fengxian, Shanghai; Red label, 120 day old

Weight:1.8 kg

Price:A whole chicken cost 198 kuai, A set for 268 (4 sauces and 4 sides)

 

Full Article:Kick off the Year of the 🐔 with this week-old Roasted 🐔 House

When DODU first opened its door in January, it was an instant success. It's been nearly 2 months since its sudden close only 2 weeks after the opening. Now DODU has found its way back to market. All chickens were gone before 7pm on a quite, rainy Sunday night. Strong reboot. 

For their new lunch session, I've made my reservation as soon as I heard the news. It was a lovely afternoon, sunny and a little breezy, great for al fresco lunch. Outside DODU stands a newly added high table, A few expact dudes devouring chicken with sunglasses on - this is the kind of view that reminds you of Le Marias or West Village. 

For the price you pay, it's perfect for lunch. 

(Would be great if I can have a piece of baguette. )

点评全文:才开了一个礼拜的烤鸡店,趁它没火赶紧吃!!!

经历了闭店风波大起大落的DODU,前几天重新开张了。

我当然已经去过了。听说他们新增了午餐时段,屁颠屁颠约了小伙伴去探。恰天光晴好,台阶外面加了一张外摆位:乍暖还寒的三月里,几个老外戴着墨镜在吃鸡,一不留神以为自己在法国。

这个价位吃午餐,真的合适。

Anyway,还是说鸡。法国红标鸡的鸡种,台湾的项目,在国内养殖,农场貌似在奉贤。无激抗,走地散养,喝纯净水,这些你们都知道了。卖200多块呢,还蛮良心的,一只鸡加配菜,4个人妥妥吃撑好吗!

IMG_3691.JPG

Anyway, the chicken. Label Rouge breed, project started in Taiwan, introduced to mainland couple years ago. No antibiotics, free range, natural grain fed, drinks filtered water...you know the story. For 268 kuai, the bird comes with 4 sides can feed 4 to 5 people (there has to be girls in the gang). 

Apart from the traditional French herbs and garlic, the marinate used here also includes paprika, mustard and something secret. It is quite full-bodied flavor that reminds of Chinese or Asian cooking. 

除了传统的香草和大蒜,DODU的腌料里还有Paprika辣椒(提色)和法国芥末(增味),味道浓郁,吃来几乎有种“酱香”的错觉。

提醒一下喜欢吃脆皮的群众,这家店的腌制比较入味,皮也不会像传统法式烤鸡那样“脆脆”的。不过,从“入味”上来看,这只鸡应该是很讨上海人民喜欢的。

For this chicken, please use your hands (bring your own hand sanitizers for now. ) The owner, Hugo, was standing behind the counter roasting chicken on the day I visited the place. It was a little overcooked, but generally good, not so impressive as compared to the amazing first time exprience (or maybe it's my hangover ). 

The chicken sauce has improved dramatically in seasoning and I'd recommend a pour-over on the chicken, especially the breast. Side dishes remained generous portion, and according to Hugo, there are few new dishes in the pipeline. 

吃这鸡,别折腾了,直接上手吧,别刀叉了。去的那日,长得很好看的老板小哥自己在烤鸡,火候稍有点过,感觉似乎没有第一次那么惊艳了(当然也有可能是我在宿醉),但愿只是碰巧。不过,配鸡的鸡汁有改良,吃法式烤鸡,还是得就着鸡汁比较对呀!配菜依然分量慷慨,奶油花菜被我无情地批判“太腻”,小哥马上说,换个别的花样。

  What Else? 

You have to try the foie gras and the chicken rillettes. Both come in plastic jars, they were big...you will need more bread. Even if you can't finish everything, you can take the rest of it home (comes in a jar!!!) and you are good for breakfast next day. 

Foie Gras? Right. It's goose liver. Luxury!

新品推出了鹅肝酱和鸡肉酱Rillettes, 和配菜一样,量非常大,非常实诚!多要点面包估计吃酱都能吃饱……非常喜欢鸡肉酱的调味,不咸,肉香足,适合夏日晚餐冷菜开场,聊个天、下个酒~~~ 鸡店为什么卖鹅肝酱?店主解释说,他们没有从农场那里拿到肝……所以,只要奢侈一把上鹅肝啦!

听说开瓶费只要80块……下次订到位子,想!喝!什!么!喝!什!么!了!

I really enjoyed the rillettes. Very authentic, very French, and the seasoning wasn't overly done. A great start for summer dinner I'd say, imaging yourself sipping good wine, chatting with friends and eating this, waiting for the chicken to come...

Corkage is 80 kuai per bottle. Off you go. 

The raspberry rose lychee Panna Cotta remains a hearty favorite of mine, though I doubt if they forgot to stir in salted caramel that day. A new lemon tart ( in a jar ) will serve the sour-lover right and is good for counteracting the richness of the chicken. 

New batch of service people results in an obvious improvement on efficiency and hospitality. 

I'd love to stop by for a sandwich very soon. 

甜品的荔枝树莓Panna Cotta,依然推荐;新品柠檬塔适合嗜酸的群众,也可以拿来解腻。

店里的服务员已经换了一茬,之前经常杵在一边的妹子已经不见了,剩下的都是手脚麻利的小哥。听说还在研发新菜式,比如沙拉,打算下回路过去吃个三明治。

ADD:81 Changshu Road

TEL:021-64315176

HOURS:Mon - Sun 10:00 - 22:00

Seats:About 20, take-away recommended


  02. HEAT  

Upscale rotisserie with a trendy, bourgeoisie vibe

 

First Open:Feb, 2017

Source:Nanjing; Red Label, 3 to 4 months old

Weight:1.6kg

Price:A whole chicken cost 188 kuai, A set for 245 (4 sauces and 4 sides)


Thanks to Goose Island Brewhouse, I finally got to know its two week old neighbour, HEAT, another new rotisserie restaurant! 

(BTW, the restroom here is not ready yet, Goose is one of the options...for a chicken and a goose, they make good neighbours. )

A little further at the Wujiang/N Maoming crossroad stands the beloved Joe's Pizza. In walking distance there's also Zhang Garden, an f&b complex based on a renovated historical buidling, where my homebar El Ocho dwells on its third floor. 

Glad to see West Nanjing Road (and Wujiang Road) is back on radar!

这家开了才两个礼拜的鸡店,知道它,多亏鹅岛,隔壁邻居嘛!HEAT家的洗手间还没修好,客人经常会跑鹅岛借用,既然都是禽类,做邻居也和睦;不远处还有吴江路的Joe's Pizza,再走几分钟就到张园,喝上我的homebar El Ocho

恩,南西商圈的餐饮,终于要重新崛起了!

Back to topic, similar to DODU, this is also a stand-alone rotisserie restaurant. As opposed to the casual, laidback atomsphere at DODUHEAT gives off a vibe of a "restaurant". A glance at this place, you know it probaly cost both money and time. It's the kind of design that makes you wanna hang out here a little. 

If DODU represents the "down-to-earth” side of roasted chicken, then HEAT might be a little on the bourgeoise side. 

It is slightly cheaper than DODU for the overlapped items. For example, a whole chicken costs 198 at DODU, while at HEAT, it's 188. 

言归正传,和DODU一样,都是开在路边的单体烤鸡店。相对DODU散漫轻松的轻食快餐氛围,HEAT给人的感觉更像一家正式餐厅:看装修就知道老板花了大心思,不论吧台、卡座还是两人桌,都是那种让人坐得住的设计。

如果说,DODU是烤鸡烟火气质的代表,那么这家就有点小布尔乔亚吧。

有趣的是,重叠的烤鸡部分,这一家的定价比DODU便宜了约5%,譬如单只烤鸡,DODU售价198元,HEAT的价格则是188元。

I smell competition, but it could also be size of the chicken - it's at least 200 gram lighter than DODU's. 

The "big" menu also reveals the ambition of HEAT. 7 sides, 5 sauces, there's also chicken soup, chicken liver, chicken pie and various salads and sandwichs available. On top of that are four main courses. 

Taking the chicken out makes it a small but proper Bistro (it's in the name anyway. ) But being a rotisserie and a bistro at the same time can be risky. 

闻到了一丝丝硝烟的味道,不过也可能是因为鸡轻了200克?引述友人的说法,“感觉鸡比DODU小了一圈。”

不过,这家店菜单之庞大,已经足以暴露它的“野心”:除了主打的烤鸡,配鸡的小菜多达7种,酱汁也有5种;还提供鸡汤、鸡肝、鸡肉派和多种沙拉、三明治,竟然还提供多达四道主菜:肉糜饭、苹果鸡、比目鱼和牛脸颊。

拿掉烤鸡,这就是家Bistro。但一个烤鸡店,搞太复杂也是有风险的哦。葡萄酒不错喝,但选择实在是太少了(DODU也一样)。Bistro坐不坐得住,关键看酒,比如我家门口的Le Verre à Vin,选酒简直是楷模……

IMG_5483.JPG

At the end of the dining room stands the kitchen behind a wall of glass. The peruvian chef has been around and well experienced with previous work at Chala and other restaurants in Shanghai. 

The chicken is sourced from Nanjing, also an offspring of the original Red Label. It comes in only one flavor, the herb and garlic French Classic.

餐室尽头的玻璃窗窗背后,是窗明几净的厨房。一只硕大的烤炉赫然在列,貌似是DODU同款。主厨来自秘鲁,先前在已经关门的Tapas Bar Chala上班, 看样子也是老司机。鸡源据说在南京,同样也是红标鸡在中国的后代,不过只有一种口味,即法式原味。听说短暂上过亚洲风味,但反响不好就撤掉了。  

With the size of the restaurant, it's made to order at this stage. The hunger inducing smell from fellow diners' orders was a good indicator of the quality. 

First time there, I had to send my chicken back to have it cut into smaller pieces. For a native chopsticks user, I found it a little too posh (and almost impossible) to handle a large piece of bone-in chicken with knife and fork. 

The owner must have realized it's easier to use the hands. Now we are equipped with hand gloves! The ones you use for crawfish. 

现点现烤,等的时候闻到别人桌上的香味要馋死了。

鸡上桌的时候发现,只被草草切了两刀。尝试用刀叉去切,失败,只能扔回厨房求改小块。Again,烤鸡如果没剁很小块,还是用手撕吧,真的。

店主貌似也发现了这件事,已经开始提供小龙虾手套了。

It's good chicken. Crispy skin, good smell, firm meat. They didn't really rest the meat. The thigh was perfect while the breast tends to be a little overcooked. But I was happy with what I got anyway. And the sauce, a clever combo of red wine sauce and chicken jus, quite amazing. 

Two weeks in, I've had my second chicken there, again, a little overcooked but still quite acceptable - it's only two weeks in. 

这一只鸡,皮面诱人,香气扑鼻,肉质紧实。仔细观察了一下,下架之后鸡并没有“休息”直接上桌,腿的时间恰恰好,细腻多汁,但胸么就有点老了。唯一的缺点,腌制上稍欠,不蘸酱味道较淡。好在红酒鸡汁酱调味惊艳,连面包都想用它来蘸了!

第二次去烤鸡有退步,时间过了,试营业还不稳定吧。

  What Else? 

Housemade chicken liver, probably one of the best I had in town. Do not get the chicken soup wrong, it's the western way with carrots, celery and diced roasted chicken meat. The mushroom (I taste butter, a lot of butter) really standed out as a side, but the portion was small. Get two. 

Maybe I should give another try of the main dish but I was a little disappointed with the slow cooked beef cheek. But the french toast, baked baguette soaked in sweet egg and milk mix, was truly a delight. Just be careful it could be tough on a full stomach. The cheesecake in a bowl was a surprise, topped with berry sauce and fresh straberries and blueberries, it's unexpectedly light and refreshing. Makes you forget about all the calories. 

It's still soft opening with mostly friends and family. The service was remarkable for soft opening. It was a bit slow but all welcoming and warm. 

自制鸡肝酱可以打高分,鸡汤是外国人那种胡萝卜西芹肉全部剁碎了扔汤里的做法(再来点米就完美了),小菜的黄油蘑菇好吃,其他无功无过,但分量比DODU小不少。

第二次试了主菜之一的牛脸颊,说是慢炖,有点太烂了……和巴黎小酒馆里吃过的还是差了不少,不太推荐。

甜品的法式吐司,就是茶餐厅里的法兰西多士换成法棍来做。蛋汁和奶吸得很饱满,不过如果吃太饱,这一口下去可能会顶到。主厨密制的芝士蛋糕,盛在碗里,搭配草莓蓝莓果酱,竟然很清爽,罪恶感全无。

虽然试营业有点忙不过来,但服务依然很亲切。法国籍的餐厅经理Gaeton很热情也很会讲话,被我问到怎么看待和其他店家的竞争关系,回答得很是巧妙:别人都很好,但我觉得我们是最好的。

 

ADD:199 N Maoming Road

TEL:021-32205689 13671550483

HOURS:5pm - 11pm(Soft Opening)

SEATS:About 26 incl. bar seats


  03. CHOP CHOP CLUB  

The only roasted chicken on a string

First Open:Feb, 2017

Source:Jiangsu, "Two Yellow" Chicken, 4 to 6 month old

Weight:around 2.2 kg

Price:180 kuai/half,340 kuai/whole
 

FULL ARTICLE:Chop Chop Club: It's Complicated Fun

Roasted chicken is a THING. Even Paul Pairet could not resist making a restaurant out of childhood memories of homemade roasted chicken, the signature dish at Chop Chop Club.

And the chicken has been the most popular item among the carvery schedule...

Tips: gather your people (4+), be there early (before 7pm) to make sure you get it. 

点评全文:Chop Chop Club:不好吃都是纸老虎

Paul Pairet的“拍卖制烤肉店”Chop Chop Club,严格意义上来说,也是个鸡店。人家的招牌菜,是烤鸡嘛!

而且,所有烤物(Carvery)里走得最快的就是烤鸡,吃了两次,最喜欢的还是鸡。

找一帮人(4个以上)早点去(早于7点)!去晚了没了不要怪我。

Chicken came in two options: Char-grilled Chicken Americaine, a little similar to barbeque, American style; Char-roasted Chicken with traditional French seasoning, haning the chicken on strings inside the oven. I went for the French one without much hesitation. 

The string-roased chicken has the crispiest skin among all the french roasted chicken I had so far in Shanghai. The meat, juicy and tender with a strong hint of herbs; I bet it's well rested before served to table as the meat was quite moist. Another highlight would be the sauce made of garlic, herbs, coriander and vinegar, extremely umami! For the price I paid (180 half chicken), I was very happy with what I had.

烤鸡有两种选择:一种美式,以炭火铁架BBQ方式炭火烤制(Char-grilled),一种传统法式,把鸡用铁丝吊起来,挂在烤炉中心以炭火烤熟(Char-roasted)。犹豫再三我选了吊鸡,恰好隔壁桌偶遇的友人点了美式,换了菜吃。

传统法式,鸡比想象中要重,据说是江苏山里的走地二黄鸡(同样肉质细嫩,相对三黄鸡,只有嘴黄脚黄,皮不黄),先进烤箱,再吊起来明火去烤,皮是目前吃到上海的法式烤鸡里最脆的,香草和炭火味都比较重,肉质细嫩但有嚼劲,肉汁被锁得很好,推测上桌前有认真“休息”过;特调的大蒜酱汁非常有特色,香菜、香草、大蒜,混合了白醋,惊艳程度甚至超乎鸡只本身。

做酱这种事,法国人最老巨了。

As for the American style grilled chicken, I got a taste by exchanging a piece of the French style bird with a table of friends nearby. I had this feeling that the French tend to have a weird interpretation of all things American, vice versa. The skin was coated in a heavy, sweet sauce, probably too sweet. It somehow reminded me of Korean fried chicken wings at Bonchon Chicken, a marriage between Korean spicy sauce and fried wings...

 

美式烤鸡么……总觉得美国的东西,到了法国人手里就会变得有点奇怪。美式烤鸡的鸡皮沾了一层甜腻酱汁,以BBQ方式烤熟,边烤边刷汁那种,鸡肉略厚,酱有点齁。与其说是美式烤鸡,我倒觉得有点韩国人酱炸鸡的味道了。

What Else?

The pumpkin soup! They use the pumpkin as a container and roast the whole thing in fire. Not the creamy texture you are used to, instead they put sliced onion and small dices  of Pancetta to balance out the pumpkin's earthy sweet flavor, with a taste of the pumpkin flesh. Do check the availability. Recommended for 4 to 6 people but it was so good that I could finish a bowl all by myself. 

A stripped down version of Beef Tartare, comes in thick, hand-cut, seasoned with shallots and an unexpected dash of cream! Very nice indeed. 

This Raspberries Essential is evidently a crowd pleaser. Marinated in sweet sherry, the raspberries came out in an suprisingly soft and jammy texture. The well aged alcohol has removed all the tanginess and added a lot more sweetness to the fruit. Coated in fresh cream, the magic berry was like a spell that I simply could not stop myself from eating. 

And so did my fellow diners...on a very full stomach, we emptied the plate in less than 5 minutes. 

另外不能错过的,还有原盅南瓜汤,非传统南瓜奶油汤的顺滑口感,放了切片的洋葱和意大利五花肉Pancetta,还能吃到南瓜纤维;超级简单的手剁款Beef Tartare,出其不意地只放了奶油和红葱头调味,吃生肉嘛,要的就是茹毛饮血,怎一个嗲字了得?

雪莉酒渍树莓,完全意料之外。据说灵感来自elbulli员工餐,用糖分极高的雪莉酒醋腌过,有了蜜饯果酱一般的柔美质感,甜而不腻、微酸不涩,裹了鲜奶油一道入口,停不下来。第一次一个人吃完了一盆。第二次点,一桌女人迅速光盘。

 

ADD:2F, Bund No. 3, to the right( The receptionist at Chi-Q would go "Welcome to Chi-Q" everytime there's someone poping from the elevator. *Heartbroken* )

TEL:021-53085399

SITE:http://www.unicoshanghai.com/ccc/

SEATS:About 120, reservation only


  04. L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON  

the one and the only

First Sold:Sept, 2016

Source:Jiangsu, San Huang Ji (Three yellow), 1 year old

Weight:1.2 kg

Price:558 kuai(with fondant potatos, shiitake mushroom and pan-fried foie gras)

FULL ARTICLE ( CHINESE ):这家米其林二星,我是冲着烤鸡去的

ATTN: This Chicken was priced at 528. Then all of a sudden roasted chicken is a THING (again!), L'Atelier decided to add a piece of pan-fried foie gras, a very Robuchon element, to go with it...a nice gesture to make a little differentiation. 

Bascially...that means, we are getting a nice piece of foie gras for 30 kuai. I bet the frozen foie gras itself cost more than that. 

Honestly, I wasn't a big fan of L'Atelier at the beigning but I was somehow lured back by this roasted chicken and it won my heart over. This beautiful chicken I've had 5 or 6 times already. There's only one time it's rested a little longer than expected but still in very good shape. Very consistent performance, close to perfection. 

It's on the Bund. Everytime I couldn't resist ordering bunch of other good tempatations and it usually ended up as a splurge.  

But I have to say, been eating so many roasted chickens, L'Atelier's remains my favorite in Shanghai.

点评全文:这家米其林二星,我是冲着烤鸡去的

ATTN: 这鸡本来是528的,结果昨天晚上有人线报给我,加了一块煎鹅肝,涨了一点点……我靠业界良心。听说是因为烤鸡现在太火了,Robuchon也坐不住了,于是大手笔加了块非常Robuchon的鹅肝。

怎么说呢,30块得一块鹅肝的感觉……鹅肝自己都不止这点钱吧。

Quote from JR家后厨:“我不吃别人家烤鸡的,要么在我们厨房里吃,要么我回家自己烤……”

这傲娇,这自信,简直了。

我一开始是不喜欢JR的,被一只烤鸡馋回去吃,印象180度转弯。这鸡,一共吃过5、6次吧,其中只有一次稍稍rest过头,胸有一点点点点柴,但依然很好吃!其他时间,稳定出品,堪称完美。

每次一吃就忍不住点一堆其他的,没有十几张毛爷爷下不来,实在是名副其实的烤鸡界爱马仕。吃了这么多烤鸡,这一只,还是我在上海的最爱,有图为证:

The rosemary sprigs resemebles a beautifual tail and the whole presentation just make you wanna stare at it mouthwatering...after the photo session, it was sent back to kitchen. Still a beauty after being cut into pieces!!!

( ¯﹃¯ ) 

一只小鸡,倒插一把迷迭香,趴在盘中央,安安静静,香气扑鼻,旁边码着工工整整的油封土豆,和分量慷慨的鸡油菌炒甜豆碎。一通乱拍完毕,请侍者拿去厨房切鸡,切碎了以后也还是那么好看!

( ¯﹃¯ ) 口水下来了。

The kitchen spent months on sourcing the right chicken. After rounds of tasting, this San Huang (Three yellow) stood out. 

Three Yellow Chicken is known for its firm, chewy skin, perfect to make white cut chicken (shanghainese poached chicken), a hearty favorite of many locals. However it's rarely used for crispy skin chicken (usually Qing Yuan Ji from Guang Dong). Honestly I don't really care if the skin is crispy or not, the overall seasoning and the tender and sweet chicken meat had already marked it the best on Shanghai's roasted chicken map. 

据说厨师选鸡就选了好几个月才选定这只一岁三黄鸡……本来以为会用清远鸡,不过从表现来看,这只三黄鸡也是不俗。

三黄鸡皮厚,弹性出色,作为白斩鸡吃皮很过瘾,但用来制作烤鸡的话,似乎比较难出现所谓的“脆皮”效果了,不过,JR的这只鸡重点不在于皮脆不脆,而在于整体调味和肉的嫩度,在上海呢,基本上是打遍天下无敌手了。

Marinated in herbs and garlics for two days, the chicken also took a fat "rest" after being roasted. The resting also helped continuing the roasting process, till the thigh was fully cooked. 

I usually started with the white meat with a shower of chicken jus...for some reason I am really fond of chicken breast. Skin was the star item while thighs were also popular, there are only two of them anyway!

Even the fondant potatoes came in perfect shape and you barely taste the oily butter because it's well absorbed! Mushroom was delightful too...

I WILL GET MY FOIE GRAS, very soon. 

You don't need me to tell you how upscale and luxury this place feels against the street rotisserie...it's a 2 michelin starred restaurant anyway. Excellent wine selection, moderately priced, compared to some overcharging experience, you'd be happy to order a bottle or two. 

这只鸡,提前用香草腌过,在冰箱里关上整整两天才能到烤架上放风,转完以后,要“休息”老大一会儿……本来以为,resting不过就是常规收汁,细问才知,鸡胸会比鸡腿先熟,resting,主要是利用鸡体残余温度让鸡腿自行熟透,顺便还有收汁效果。

切完了以后,汁都不会渗出来啊啊啊啊啊

先从白肉开吃,淋上调过味的鸡汁,原汤化原食……经验丰富的吃鸡群众,都知道鸡最好吃的部分是皮,这块鸡皮,软而不烂,保有少许韧劲,油香则统统被逼出来;最容易柴的胸肉,也吸足了鸡汁,整一个饱满鲜嫩……抢到一只红肉大腿,鸡味更浓郁,肉质更细嫩,又是另一番风味。

最难得的地方,是连旁边的土豆都做得一丝不苟,吃起来一点都不油!用鸡油炒出来的鸡油菌(据说现在变香菇了哦),更是鲜到停不下来。

一道菜用不用心,用了多少心,一吃就知道。

环境么,和其他烤鸡店也是没什么可比性了……酒单出众,不可以自己带酒,但价格上其实很业界良心,比之某些餐厅动辄4到5倍成本价的零售价格,Robuchon只翻2、3倍。

  What Else ? 

Best foie gars burger in Shanghai, peroid.

Le Beetrave, a beets apple tartare topped with green mustard sorbet, was the star item from the vegetarian tasting menu. Balanced flavors and interesting texture from crispy apple dice and mushy beets. 

这家鸭肝汉堡上海第一。你看看这个肝呀,厚得来不要太有诚意哦!

又见甜菜苹果青芥末塔塔!很西班牙的一道菜,中看中吃!😍 甜酸度极平衡,沙沙的苹果与甜菜口感也有趣~ 上面一球酱,酸爽可人,超级妙~

A very sophisticated interpretation of suckling pig. Roasted, diced and mixed, you don't even recognize what it was! One of the best selling items and now stays as a regular on the menu. 

还有个前菜的烤乳猪,烤乳猪剁碎了变成肉糜,淋醋搭配香草吃,吃不腻啊吃不腻。本来也是秋季菜,后来卖太好了干脆变成常规菜留下来咯!

Robuchon的面包,在整个上海的Fine Dining圈子里小有名气。面包师傅来自日本,做得每一样小东西都很花心思。

之前从来没注意过这根小法棍,吃完一口之后,接着默默吃了四根。干吃、擦盘子、抹黄油,怎么都好,侍者听到我们的对话,还贴心奉上一碟橄榄油。值得一提的是,上一次去时,侍者竟然还记得我喜欢蘸橄榄油,特地给了一碟……在服务常常被忽视的上海,感动。

这韧性是蛮锻炼咬肌的,但是好吃啊!P.S. 楼下面包房Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon有售,5块一根。正常的短法棍9块,长法棍好像是15,价格直逼85度X和X黎贝甜啊,业界良心。

In the foreseeable future, DODU and HEAT, the two stand-alone rotisseries, should have their own followings. Thanks to the distance, a direct competition is avoided and I am happy that diners in FCC and West Nanjing Rd area can enjoy their own roasted chicken. 

If I get friends visiting Shanghai, I'd still go to CHOP CHOP for the chicken. 

But, upon completing this article, I look forward to going back to L'Atelier soon for the piece of pan-fried foie gras and my favorite roasted chicken in Shanghai. 

Believe it or not, roasting a chicken is an art. 

在我可以预见到的未来,DODUHEAT这两家单体烤鸡店,应该都会有各自充足的客源和粉丝群,反正离得够远,法租界和南西商圈,遥相对望、各霸一方呗~ 

如果要带人去CHOP CHOP嘚瑟,还是会首选那只吊鸡;

不过,写这篇文章以后,我还真的是很想再回Robuchon,再吃一顿烤鸡呢。

(我真的不是托。)

烤鸡是门艺术。信不信由你。

 

In Shanghai, Feast New York by the Slice

In Shanghai, Feast New York by the Slice

Chop Chop Club: It's Complicated Fun

Chop Chop Club: It's Complicated Fun