Highline: A New Scope of American Food

Highline: A New Scope of American Food

Highline

ADD: 淮海中路282号香港广场北座雅诗阁酒店6层

282 Middle Huaihai Road, Hong Kong Plaza

6F, Ascott Service Apartment

TEL: 021-63330176

AVRG: 400 kuai

GOOD FOR: Date, Chill, Hanging with friends, Casual party


I never thought I’d like Highline at first sight. 

Yeah I’ve missed the opening party. After reading a few reviews and articles I decided to hold off a little bit. The ribs, the meat, the fried chicken and the overly sweet looking dessert makes me wanna cringe…well, Anna Bautista, after all, is a Southern girl. This whole range of southern comfort food, just by a glance at the menu, is killing me. 

That’s why I sort of waitlisted the place... 

我压根没想到我会对Highline一见钟情。

不巧错过开幕派对,看了不少媒体报道,有点灭high:不是肋排大肉,就是炸鸡和齁死人的甜品。曾经领衔Coquille和Chez Maurice的主厨Anna Bautista,果然还是美国南方姑娘,这一手的南方大菜,光是看看就觉得,血稠了……

Truth is, besides food, you should come appreciate the design: stunning use of color, airy space filled with light through glass ceiling, a trendy outdoor rooftop deck, rendering it an instant classic in shanghai…I can totally see a massive wave of selfies and instragram pics approaching...

撇开食物,对这家店的第一印象,一定是美:好看到没朋友的配色,透光的玻璃天顶,洋气时髦高大上的露台……感觉妹子们可以玩自拍玩一下午。

But seriously, it’s always the food matters the most. 

One visit on a whim resulted in two visits during the following week, I guess that says something about my love for this new establishment.  

Go for lunch, you'll see the property at its prettiest! Don't forget order the smoked brisket sandwich. Get it for lunch, makes me miss Katz’s Deli in New York. Do pack the rest of the sandwich, leftover meat makes perfect “home special”, namely ban mian or fried rice.

但环境再好,不如好吃重要。

一次心血来潮去试吃,结果一周之内连去三次。一顿阳光明媚的午餐,更让人印象大大加分。春天来了,真想找个好天气,再去吃一次Brunch呀!

午餐的大肉三明治(Smoked Brisket Sandwich),分分钟秒回Katz Deli,吃不完可以打包回家肉抠出来做你自己的Chef’s Special,拌面炒饭都可以哦~

Besides the fried chicken and New Orlean favourite rice dish Étouffée, they also have slowed roasted steak from New York and quite a few number of vegetable driven dishes reminding of californian cuisine. A deeper study of the casual yet funky menu led to one conclusion: this surely is not Southern cuisine and it's a little similar to my favourite restaurant in New York, Narcissa, from Standard Hotel East Village.

Oh, did I mention Highline actually drew some inspiration from Standard Hotel Downtown LA? PlusAnna, like Narcissa's acclaimed John Fraser, was full of CAL spirit. 

I just can’t believe it took me so long to discover this place properly…what a waste of time.  

除了南方的炸鸡和新奥尔良的烩饭,还有纽约的牛排,加州的草,才不只是美国南方硬菜,休闲风的菜式,却好玩又清奇,再加上酒店餐厅的整体氛围,一下子就想起了纽约东村的Standard Hotel East Village我最爱的餐厅,Narcissa

听说Highline的设计灵感,有部分就来自Standard Hotel的另一家店,Standard Downtown LA? 而且,Anna和Narcissa的主厨John Fraser一样,都曾在加州闯出一片天。

拖了这么久才吃到,感觉自己受到了一万点伤害……好啦,看菜看菜!

I learned this word, Tete de Conchon, from an ex-colleague of mine (he’s French. ) We spotted this term on a menu together in New York and he went “Oh you guys are so funny, why not just say pig head?” But incoperating a little French in the menu did result in a little face lift, making it sound much “properer”. Well, after all "pig head" doesn't sound very exciting.

But, I have to confess that I am, indeed, a fan of pig head. The plushy and chewy pork skin mixed with meaty pork cheeky? So good. It’s brilliant to call for black garlic as the pig head does not have much flavor in itself. But I was quite impressed with the presence of pear, not imported but rather local ones, carefully selected. it’s not the watery and blend Chinese pear you had before, but rather a kind that boasts the sweetness and sourness at the same time. A pleasant addition to this cold cut! 

Tete de cochon这个词,是前同事、法国人D君教我的。在公司对面吃饭,看到菜单上这样写,讪讪嘲讽道,“你们纽约人,好好的猪头不说猪头,非要说tete de cochon。” 但法语菜名,的确有种莫名其妙的高级感,你想想,写Pig head就一点都不嗲了好伐!

丰富的胶原蛋白加上猪脸颊的活肉,不能更爱!猪头味淡,就用了滋味香浓的黑蒜酱,但点睛之笔是片片中国梨,在保障酸度的同时又兼有很高的甜度,清爽无压力,毫无违和感呀!

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The smoked trout salad was the eye candy in the salad section. Honestly I’ve had it a couple times before (possibly from some michelin starred place in NYC), but with this very classic recipe, it doesn’t really mean you have to go all force on being super creative. As long as it’s tasty and fits the identity of the place. If you are a fan of the foie gras, get the foie gras torchon here, it’s beautiful with the strawberries, chocolate and the edible flowers.  

午餐吃到的Smoked Trout Salad(烟熏鳟鱼沙拉),样子极美,就是一整颗菜往上端,有点不好切……老实说,这算不上什么新菜,但这种非常经典的recipe,本来就是开放题库,谁都能拿来搞一搞、锦上添点花的,好吃才是硬道理 ~ 鹅肝冷盘,配了草莓巧克力,又见春意盎然的食用花,爱吃肝的可以尝试。

The most impressive dish that stroke me the first time was the Étouffée. The blackened shrimp was full of bold flavors. Anna cooks this southern favorite with her usual twist - engaging a few pieces of smoked dried tomato, then there’s layers of spicy, sweet and sour…making it one of the best rice dishes I had this year so far.  

头一次让我惊到的菜,是这个碳烤虾南方烩饭(Étouffée)。这道烩饭,是美国南部Cajun风格名菜,也是主厨Anna的家乡菜,把番茄、辣椒闷出一锅饭,常见配料一般是海鲜和有壳类水产,譬如,国人都很爱的小龙虾。

恩,就是海鲜辣粥的感觉……

一根根竖起来的烤虾子,有很足的镬气:壳已焦香,肉却依然弹牙,丝毫没过头,辣饭里放了大块蟹肉。不过,最让人喜欢的是一片片风干了的烟熏番茄,一块番茄一块肉,就着一勺饭一起放进嘴里嚼,辣味回魂,兼有酸甜鲜爽,恨不得舔碗。

Promise me you won’t skip the wild clams. Otherwise you are REALLY missing out. Rumor has it that one of the owners fell in love with a Qing Dao girl, thus we have this beautiful local clam from QD. 

主菜里绝对不能错过的,还有这个来自青岛的野生蓝镜贝;听说老板是因为爱上了青岛姑娘,而吃上了这个野生大蛤蜊,一吃钟情,费尽力气把它弄来了上海(听说,也是为了让妹子不回家就能吃到家乡菜,太Sweet)。

It kills. Possibly the best clam I’ve had in my entire life. The point is they are HUGE, like three times the size of a regular clam (and it’s not mutation.) 

I’ve heard many good things about QD, this clam makes me really want to book my flight. 

基本颠覆了我对蛤蜊这个物种的认知,那么大只、肉那么厚,居然鲜成这个鬼样子,简直不科学!如果要衡量鲜味,可能在同一个级别的,应该是食材成本超过100块的火腿版腌笃鲜……

听说青岛还有很多其他好吃的水产,想去旅游!

The slow roasted prime wagyu rib, which is the signature of this restaurant, didn’t really sound so special to me…and it didn’t look special. Well you know, just a piece of meat, stripped down, lying in the middle of a plate, without any attempt of garnish...

But this was actually the most impressive dish of all. It takes a big chuck of meat to be slow roasted for up to six hours (low temp), when you cut it you don’t see any fluids coming out of it!!! 

It’s HEAVEN.   

菜单上独辟出的一块招牌慢烤牛肋,看着没什么特别,上桌也的确没什么特别,就一块肉,光秃秃横在盘子里……哈粗糙。

然而,它竟然是所有主菜里最让人难以忘怀的一道。一整块和牛慢烤6小时,收汁和慢烤过程同时完成,切得时候一点血水都没渗出来!!!肥瘦均匀,牛排虽不能入口即化,却也脂香四溢,蘸不蘸汁都一样完美。

It was actually the dessert that swept me off my feet.

The pity I had with Narcissi was all about dessert. I’ve given it many chances, I’ve had my patient to try out every single dessert from the menu and all of them was a little disaster in its own way...

The very similar Highline had done its dessert right.  

这家店让我刮目相待的,还有甜点

当年在Narcissa最遗憾的一件事,就是甜点难吃……不死心滚完甜点单,终于知道什么叫无药可救:每一道都难吃。Highline算是圆了我一个梦……

Mint chocolate ice cream, one of my favorite but be careful of it if you do not like mint. Lemon chiffon cake, layered up with dreamy soft texture, would probably be the darling of any girl who seeks a not-so-sweet palate cleanser type of dessert.

Cookie and chocolate pudding dip, so straightfoward and no fuss, was a calorie bomb that cures almost everything instantly. But my favorite goes to the banana volcano cake, plus It really showed how to make decent salted caramel banana ice cream…the mere thought of that ice cream gives me goose bumps... 

But no one was born perfect. The only weak spot of this place lies in the drinking program. Trust me the long drinks are fine.  

Okay la, I guess I've said enough of it...book your table and savor some America of its trendier side. 

巧克力薄荷雪糕,彻头彻尾的美式口味,我是爱得要死,但各位请慎点;柠檬雪纺蛋糕,适合不那么爱甜、想要个清口甜点的。

曲奇和巧克力布丁dip,简单粗暴,治愈力一百分。但我最喜欢的必然还是这个香蕉焰心巧克力。海盐焦糖香蕉冰淇淋,稠得可以拉丝。吃完这个,血可能真的会变稠的。

人无完人,店无完店。Highline的弱项,大概是酒。鸡尾酒长饮尚可,葡萄酒么,如果一定要喝,大不了自!己!带!酒!

好啦你看,我都安利成这个样子了,这家店名字还叫Highline(插播New York State of Mind),你真的不想去试试吗?  

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