2018 Michelin Shanghai - All You Need To Know
Every year, you will be hearing rumors, loads of it, before the release of Michelin Guide. That's a promise.
First year in, as many predicted, the local food scene has seen a boost in both variety and quality since the release of the guide. The ones eager for stars have worked their arse off, leaving the crowned restaurants even more diligent, in fear of losing stars.
For any die-hard foodie like myself, at this time of the year, nothing makes me happier than learning my favorite restaurants being recognized (again) by the Guide. In the end of the day, it's not the bible and we all have our own favorite picks of restaurants in town.
Take a look at the final list below followed by a few highlights, reviews of the restaurants visited within the past year, and some favorites of mine (of quality and standard but for many reasons not included in the Guide) I wish to share with you.
Three Stars ***
ULTRAVIOLET by Paul Pairet ↑
Two Stars **
8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Yi Long Court
One Star *
Bo Shanghai new
Da Dong (iapm)
Da Dong (Park Place)
Wujie (The Bund) new
Madam Goose (Xinzhuang)
Fu He Hui
Seventh Son (Kerry Center)
Lao Zheng Xing
Lei Garden (IFC)
Lei Garden (iapm)
Le Patio & La Famille (Middle Sichuan Road)
Xin Rong Ji (Shanghai Plaza)
Yong Fu new
Yong Yi Ting
A Niang Mian
Da Hu Chun (Sichuan Road)
Wujie (SWFC, Xujiahui Park)
Din Tai Fung (Shanghai Center)
Gong De Lin (West Nanjing Road)
Hai Jin Zi (Jinxian Road)
King Kong Dumpling & Noodles (Mengzi Road)
Lu Bo Lang
Le Patio & La Famille (Middle Sichuan Road) new
Nanxiang Steamed Bun (City God Temple)
Ye Olde Station
Jardin de Jade (Chong Hing Finance Center)
Yangzhou Fan Dian (Middle Fujian Road)
Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop (IFC)
1. 30 starred restaurants and 27 bib gourmand diners are selected to this year's Michelin Guide.
2. No restaurants have lost stars since last year, with the 3-star Cantonese restaurant Tang Courtstill taking the lead.
3. Popular immersive fine-dining UltraViolet unveiled as the second 3-star winner in Shanghai.
4. All new entries received 1-star, including the long standing New York transplant of Jean-Georges, high profile Chinese molecular gastronomy Bo Shanghai, and the much sought-after Ningbo cuisine Yong Fu（甬府）at the historical Jinjiang Hotel.
Leaping from Bib Gourmand, Wujie (Bund) has became the second starred vegetarian restaurant in Shanghai following Fu He Hui.
5. Local Shanghainese food advocates might find themselves a little disappointed. YongFoo Éliteis accompanied by its close relative Yong Fu as the only local representatives on the starred list. Plus, no Japanese again.
1. 本年度共收录星级餐厅 30 家，必比登餐厅 27 家。
4. 今年新上榜的星级餐厅全部都是一星：上海国外高星西餐奠基人之一的Jean-Georges，去年高调进驻上海的 Bo Shanghai，深受本地老饕喜爱的锦江饭店宁波菜餐厅甬府；今年的一匹黑马是大蔬无界（外滩店），从必比登榜单实现鲤跃，荣登一星，成为福和慧之后第二家星级素食餐厅。
The Visited/Reviewed Restaurants
If I get to pick one Destination Restuarant in Shanghai, it would be UltraViolet. Five years ago, Paul Pairet has built up a sensory kingdom in an unknown warehouse right by Suzhou River (you might as well spot it on Swarm or Instagram Check-ins). The famed experience, somewhat reminding of Sleep No More, allows you about 4 hours of pleasure to enjoy the virtual reality created by Chef Paul Pairet, without wearing the headset.
在我心中，上海只有一家餐厅称得上 Destination Restaurant，它就是UltraViolet。在上海苏州河畔某个知名不具的仓库里，Paul Pairet的上帝之手筑起一座封闭的感官世界，4个小时一顿饭，心无旁骛，沉入精心编排的剧本。
The 3 stars. It is, for what it's worth, the best I've experienced this year.
The most controversial part about UV has always been the core of UV: the multi-sensory experience itself. Is it too much for a dining experience? Is it better to just focus on the food?
I guess the guide has given us a clear answer.
I was lucky enough to have dined at UV twice earlier this year: Menu A with the full package, and the other time standing in the kitchen, going through a stripped-down version of Menu C.
Paul Pairet 这一颗三星，可谓众望所归。
Speaking of food itself. UV is truly, a trend setter, surfing the waves of technology innovations while remains unaffected by the ever-so-whimsical tides of "food fashion". While Set Menu A released five years ago stands solid, Menu C could be called, overwhelming.
My favorite dish, Surf Surf Turf Turf, is a magical combination-depiction of crashing waves under a full moon, juicy foie gras, dangly oysters and fresh squid being grilled in the crackles of bonfire. The umaminess was undoubtedly mouthwatering, but the fairy-like presentation upgraded this dish to a jaw-dropping masterpiece.
I'd be honest with you. Price is steep. The 4000 and 6000 menus share the same courses with different wine pairing options. But what's wrong about it? Everyone who's had it knows Paul Pairet, excuse my language, is a f***ing genius.
个人认为，单看食物出品，在料理技术不断精进、流行风云变幻的当下，UV也是当之无愧的Trend Setter。已经5岁的A菜单不知影响了多少后辈，至今也拿得出手，最新的C菜单就更出彩：我最爱的Surf Surf Turf Turf，皓月当空，涛声拍岸，海水的气息渐渐褪去，劈啪作响的篝火之中，碳烤的鹅肝、生蚝与墨鱼淋着肉汁，令人垂涎欲滴。这意想不到的味觉组合，本就鲜得出其不意，有了虚设的陪衬，不得不说惊为天人。
真!的!很!贵! 4000和6000的菜是一样的，只是配酒有差。4000的没什么不好的。还有一个全明星菜单卖8888，我，并吃不起……反正我会找时间再吃UVB，因为吃过的人会这样想：Paul Pairet is a f***ing genius.
2. L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Go for it if you are looking for impeccable consistency and top 5 wine lists in Shanghai, a casual yet upscale atmosphere that offers you two full pages of a la carte options beyond a few set menus (plus desserts), last but not the least, the all time BEST roasted chicken in Shanghai. Second Service after 8:30pm is strongly recommended. Less crowded, much more relaxed with special menus staring from 388 rmb only!! Hoooray!
有无懈可击的稳定出品和大约是高级餐厅里top 5的酒单，并不强迫你点套餐set menu的休闲氛围，以及全上海最好吃的烤鸡和餐前面包篮，没有之一。平时太满，推荐8点半以后Second Service，人少、安静，还能点到只有这样的特殊时段才有的、388块起跳的特价菜单！！！
It's a miracle how L'Atelier and Chef Robuchon managed to retain the same high standards while taking over a critical number of major capitals of the world (com'on it's not a central kitchen business. ) Great team, strong leaders, strict processes, and a dedicated heart...I guess this is the formula.
足迹遍布全球的JR，不仅是美食家津津乐道的经典食府，更是法国菜大规模饮食文化输出的先锋前哨。但最可怕的地方在于，那么多店，平均出品水准却高得惊人（又不是中央厨房啊！！！）。哈哈哈，于是很多粉丝常常戏称L'Atelier为“The French KFC”，实则表扬它出品稳定。
3. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo
Yes, it's famous for the truffle and being over the top. But Otto e Mezzo is one of the most earnest starred restaurants since last year. I've tried pretty much every dish on the menu and have seen improvements almost everywhere, from the art of plating to the accuracy expression of ingredients...trust me, it's been esclated to something else. Note that my last visit was conducted while the chef was on vacay.
是的，Otto e Mezzo 的松露很出名，也贵得出名。来过很多次，菜基本都吃过，可能是我个人体验过米其林颁布之后，全上海最“吊了根筋”的餐厅之一：从摆盘到对食材表达的精准性，都有相当进步，而且还是在主厨不在的情况下，真令人刮目相待。
The cooking never steers away from the earthiness rooted in Italian cuisine. You won't go wrong with Veal Milanese, but prepare to be wowed by the taste of Mushroom Tortellini! And yes, I would love to reward myself with a bowl of pasta topped with generous portion of white truffle as the season approaches...
4. Bo Shanghai
French interpretation of the "Big Eight Chinese Cuisines" is a tough nut to crack, and soon to be shifted to Italian! The kitchen did a neat job to digest the idea. Good news, there is BREAD! And Menu has probably changed since my last visit.
Honestly, I'm more excited to learn the newly refurbished Daimon Bistro next door, has reopened its door last week, with a more affordable menu (200-300 price range excluding cocktails). Can't wait to visit again!
开业时吃过一次，叙事宏大，用法餐的方式重构中国8大菜系经典元素，这么难啃的饼，厨房团队也是硬吞下去了，而且听说马上要从法餐改意大利餐了，特别期待再访。菜没毛病，唯一的缺点是不给面包，我这种美国人训练出来的大胃王实在是……然后我写了篇文章、很诚实地讲我没吃饱，再后来……就听说现在发面包了，啊，想吃！不过老实讲我其实更期待外面那家重新装修了的 Daimon Bistro (推荐榜单)，价格亲民（只要2、300，鸡尾酒贵），上周低调soft opening，听说菜品有变，过几日回访。
5. PHENIX Eatery & Bar
My go-to place for western cuisine in Shanghai, PHENIX features Modern French cuisine with an Australian twist: a strong focus on seasonal ingredients with light seasoning and elegant plating. Chef Michael Wilson, one of the most talented and dedicated people I've met, has come a long way since his first star last year. How much better has PHENIX become? Go see for yourself.
Price is fairly reasonable, a meal only sets you back at 4-500 rmb not including wine. Fall menu is out soon, but black cod and langoustine on the current menu are not to be missed, and regulars like beef tartare and duck breast are my all-time favorites. Be sure to try the famed lobster pasta , once a special now an regular item on the menu. For stinky cheese lovers, get the black truffle Madeleine before the pairing Camembert Cheese runs out!
口味清淡、摆盘养眼的新式法国菜，价格适中，不带酒大约4、500。秋季菜单快了，目前菜单上的黑鳕鱼、海鳌虾还是很值得一试，其他还有一些常规菜如牛肉塔塔、鸭胸也是必点，（我一手捧起来的）龙虾意面换了这个小龙虾意面的菜谱。哦你也可以去试试那个凶残的鸭脖子腿肉香肠啊很好吃的，或者趁 Camembert Cheese 还没用光，配黑松露玛德琳吃！
Avrg. Cost：RMB500-800（Lunch set starting from RMB188）
6. Yong Fu
Since the release of the first Guide last year, I've always been telling people that the Michelin Guide should not miss Yong Fu. PROVED NOT WRONG eh!
Nestled in one of the long established luxury hotels from Old Shanghai era, it's decidely high-end from inside-out. But I've always opted for the home cooking dishes - delibrately skipping expensive seafood dishes - that will cut your bill under 500 per person. Perfect spot for fine Chinese food and suitable for family dinners. I have taken my parents there.
FYI, Ningbo cuisine is a close relative of Shanghainese. I'm obssessed with the creamy Taro Stew with Deep-fried Lard, kept warm on top of a burning candle, still simmering as it's served to the table! Don't miss the smelly, fishy tilefish soup, a true delight for someone grew up eating "stinky fermented seafood".
Huge portion easy for the group, cozy environment and excellent service, seriously what's more to improve at Yong Fu? Not much. Event the after dinner fruit selection was close to d-e-v-i-n-e.
Make sure you order their Roasted Bok-choy in Ningbo style, and your food will be served in a plate with live goldfish swimming around! 100% Instagram-worthy.
Avrg. Cost: RMB250-800
My emotional attachment to Jean-Georges is mostly linked to the years spent in New York. I even grieved a bit when they missed the stars last year. The restaurant rarely changes the menu probably due to consistency control, but the brunch is a real killer. I am definitely going back for the brunch, and also for the fabulous daytime view.
Avrg. Cost: RMB1000-1500
8. Seven Son
My go-to spot for Cantonese food before Ming Court opened next to Hong Qiao airport. Quote from one of my dining buddies: "I'll even rate it 3 star when it's played out well..."
明阁没有开之前，粤菜我一般会去吃这家。Quote from 饭友红豆：“我觉得家全七福发挥好的时候绝对是有三星水准的！”
Avrg. Cost: RMB400-800
9. Old Jesse on Tianping Rd (Bib Gourmand)
People, espeically my fellow Shanghainese diners, tend to underestimated Old Jesse for it being a chain restaurant. But this location of Old Jesse has won my heart over and over again. Their Homecooked Yellow Croakers, Baby Shanghai Green stir-fried with ham slices and bean curds, Cold Salty Chicken are my top 3 must-order. But nothing beats the soysauce-based vegetable pork wonton soup, 30 Kuai for a huge bowl filled with tempting smell of lard.
Avrg. Cost: RMB100-200
Others to watch
Unfortunately, many restaurants still can't jump on the last train, though some of them are the ones that some of us felt 'truly deserved'. Meanwhile, loads of new openings are soildering up here in Shanghai, aiming to take over a spot on the list next year.
3-star T'ang Court's little sister Ming Court just held a low-key opening at the Cordis Hotel next to Hongqiao Airport. Dined there once with friends thanks to a 3 hour layover. And...it lives up to the lengendary of a most consistent high-end cantonese chain. Deng's (邓记食园), my favorite Sichuanese spot in town, was absolutely not to be missed, however it might be gone at the end of the month due to lease issue. *Sighs*
Speaking of western food, I would still like to express my love and support for Commune Social and NAPA on the bund. Plus Highline at Ascott Apartment serves the best Californian food I've had outside the US.
三星唐阁的小妹妹明阁，在虹桥机场隔壁低调开业，配朋友吃了一次 layover 的飞机餐，除了楼上酒店新装修味道有点大，没毛病。我一直都很推崇、当川菜食堂来吃的邓记就不讲了……不过这家店可能很快就要木有了，😔 哎。
I've been long expecting this new casual concept Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, after two visits, the food lives up to the names, Pierre Gagnaire and Chef Chapel. French Consession's AKMEand its upstairs Cantonese sister property Ji Pin Xuan are also considered 2 strong contenders next year.
Other notable projects in the pipeline include Yannick Alleno's new bistro, NYC Marea'sShanghai outpost, and the joint effort of Jason Atherton and Editon Hotel, to be unveiled early next year (rumor says Scott Melvin from beloved Commune Social will be helming the project).
和 L'Atelier 定位相似，走"大师背书休闲路线"的Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire ，之前动静也是很大，出品比较中规中矩，去了两次，第二次各方面都有明显提升。毕竟是新店，各方面调整还是需要时间。名门之后的主厨，又是顶了 PG 的名号，即便是休闲路数，水准也是不好掉下来的 ，法国人那点爱面子和我们上海人还是挺像的。
So, what's next? Localization? The Guide was created for the travellers but as we've observed from earlier expansions to Singapore and Hong Kong, trust and support from local community stands as a strong endorsement. Street food? Maybe.
The unknown future,
The unarrived and the unpredictable,
Enjoy the meal and the Michelin show.
Written & Edited by：喜北 aka Xiaoyi
Translated to English by: Judy