2018 Michelin Shanghai - All You Need To Know

2018 Michelin Shanghai - All You Need To Know

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Every year, you will be hearing rumors, loads of it, before the release of Michelin Guide. That's a promise. 

First year in, as many predicted, the local food scene has seen a boost in both variety and quality since the release of the guide. The ones eager for stars have worked their arse off, leaving the crowned restaurants even more diligent, in fear of losing stars.

For any die-hard foodie like myself, at this time of the year, nothing makes me happier than learning my favorite restaurants being recognized (again) by the Guide. In the end of the day, it's not the bible and we all have our own favorite picks of restaurants in town.

Take a look at the final list below followed by a few highlights, reviews of the restaurants visited within the past year, and some favorites of mine (of quality and standard but for many reasons not included in the Guide) I wish to share with you. 

不论去年、今年还是明年的米其林,每年米其林公布前后,都会吵翻天。

且不论结果如何,米其林来了一年,餐饮业竞争愈演愈烈,让上海人民吃到了更多新店,也让没拿到星的头悬梁、锥刺股,至于拿到的,也不敢掉以轻心。说句实在话,我常去那几家店,是比以前好吃。

自己喜欢的餐厅得到认可,我真的挺开心的。

就像我去年说的,推动上海餐饮往前走,米其林立竿见影;为旅行者推荐餐厅,在世界范围内,也还真没人比它做得更好。但吃饭这件事,一人一张嘴,本就众口难调。

尽信书不如无书,米其林不是圣经,你喜欢,最重要。

我们先看榜单,我会简要总结看点,针对我自己去年内吃过的店逐一点评并附上详细餐评链接,还有一部分我非常欣赏、出于种种原因无缘榜单的好店,希望与你分享。

想问个问题:现在,你最想摘哪颗星?

Three Stars ***
 

T'ang Court

ULTRAVIOLET by Paul Pairet

 

Two Stars **
 

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Canton 8

Yi Long Court

YongFoo Élite

Imperial Treasure

 

One Star *
 

Sir Elly's

Bo Shanghai new

Da Dong (iapm)

Da Dong (Park Place)

Wujie (The Bund) new

Madam Goose (Xinzhuang)

Phénix

Fu He Hui

Jean-Georges new

Seventh Son (Kerry Center)

Jin Xuan

Kanpai Classic

Lao Zheng Xing

Lei Garden (IFC)

Lei Garden (iapm)

Shang-High

Le Patio & La Famille (Middle Sichuan Road)

Jade Mansion

Taian Table

Xin Rong Ji (Shanghai Plaza)

Yong Fu new

Yong Yi Ting

 

Bib Gourmand

 

A Niang Mian

Alma

Da Hu Chun (Sichuan Road)

Wujie (SWFC, Xujiahui Park)

Din Tai Fung (Shanghai Center)

East Eatery

Crystal

Gong De Lin (West Nanjing Road)

Hai Jin Zi (Jinxian Road)

Han Mama

Hao Sheng

Jesse

King Kong Dumpling & Noodles (Mengzi Road)

Lan Ting

Lan Xin

Lu Bo Lang

Mao Long

Mi Thai

Le Patio & La Famille (Middle Sichuan Road) new

Nanxiang Steamed Bun (City God Temple)

Ye Olde Station

Jardin de Jade (Chong Hing Finance Center)

Tandoor new

Four Seasons

Yangzhou Fan Dian (Middle Fujian Road)

Tasty Congee & Noodle Wantun Shop (IFC)

 

1. 30 starred restaurants and 27 bib gourmand diners are selected to this year's Michelin Guide.

2. No restaurants have lost stars since last year, with the 3-star Cantonese restaurant Tang Courtstill taking the lead.

3. Popular immersive fine-dining UltraViolet unveiled as the second 3-star winner in Shanghai.

4. All new entries received 1-star, including the long standing New York transplant of Jean-Georges, high profile Chinese molecular gastronomy Bo Shanghai, and the much sought-after Ningbo cuisine Yong Fu(甬府)at the historical Jinjiang Hotel.

Leaping from Bib Gourmand, Wujie (Bund) has became the second starred vegetarian restaurant in Shanghai following Fu He Hui.

5. Local Shanghainese food advocates might find themselves a little disappointed. YongFoo Éliteis accompanied by its close relative Yong Fu as the only local representatives on the starred list. Plus, no Japanese again.

1. 本年度共收录星级餐厅 30 家,必比登餐厅 27 家。

2. 今年没有餐厅掉星唐阁继续保持三星评级。

3. 上海第二个三星,花落紫外线餐厅UltraViolet。

4. 今年新上榜的星级餐厅全部都是一星:上海国外高星西餐奠基人之一的Jean-Georges,去年高调进驻上海的 Bo Shanghai,深受本地老饕喜爱的锦江饭店宁波菜餐厅甬府;今年的一匹黑马是大蔬无界(外滩店),从必比登榜单实现鲤跃,荣登一星,成为福和慧之后第二家星级素食餐厅。

5. 今年还是没有日本料理,甬府勉强算沾边上海菜?

The Visited/Reviewed Restaurants

1. UltraViolet

If I get to pick one Destination Restuarant in Shanghai, it would be UltraViolet. Five years ago, Paul Pairet has built up a sensory kingdom in an unknown warehouse right by Suzhou River (you might as well spot it on Swarm or Instagram Check-ins). The famed experience, somewhat reminding of Sleep No More, allows you about 4 hours of pleasure to enjoy the virtual reality created by Chef Paul Pairet, without wearing the headset. 

在我心中,上海只有一家餐厅称得上 Destination Restaurant,它就是UltraViolet。在上海苏州河畔某个知名不具的仓库里,Paul Pairet的上帝之手筑起一座封闭的感官世界,4个小时一顿饭,心无旁骛,沉入精心编排的剧本。

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The 3 stars. It is, for what it's worth, the best I've experienced this year. 

The most controversial part about UV has always been the core of UV: the multi-sensory experience itself. Is it too much for a dining experience? Is it better to just focus on the food? 

I guess the guide has given us a clear answer. 

I was lucky enough to have dined at UV twice earlier this year: Menu A with the full package, and the other time standing in the kitchen, going through a stripped-down version of Menu C.

Paul Pairet 这一颗三星,可谓众望所归。

关于UV,历来最大的争议恰恰在于,多重感官体验是否影响了食客的判断;而米其林的判定标准,只在食物本身。今年吃了两次UV,一次是正常的A菜单,另一次则是在后厨站着吃C菜单,前者有全套沉浸式体验,后者则让我更专注在食物本身。

▲ Surf Surf Turf Turf & Paul Pairet

▲ Surf Surf Turf Turf & Paul Pairet

Speaking of food itself. UV is truly, a trend setter, surfing the waves of technology innovations while remains unaffected by the ever-so-whimsical tides of "food fashion". While Set Menu A released five years ago stands solid, Menu C could be called, overwhelming. 

My favorite dish, Surf Surf Turf Turf, is a magical combination-depiction of crashing waves under a full moon, juicy foie gras, dangly oysters and fresh squid being grilled in the crackles of bonfire. The umaminess was undoubtedly mouthwatering, but the fairy-like presentation upgraded this dish to a jaw-dropping masterpiece.

I'd be honest with you. Price is steep. The 4000 and 6000 menus share the same courses with different wine pairing options. But what's wrong about it? Everyone who's had it knows Paul Pairet, excuse my language, is a f***ing genius.

个人认为,单看食物出品,在料理技术不断精进、流行风云变幻的当下,UV也是当之无愧的Trend Setter。已经5岁的A菜单不知影响了多少后辈,至今也拿得出手,最新的C菜单就更出彩:我最爱的Surf Surf Turf Turf,皓月当空,涛声拍岸,海水的气息渐渐褪去,劈啪作响的篝火之中,碳烤的鹅肝、生蚝与墨鱼淋着肉汁,令人垂涎欲滴。这意想不到的味觉组合,本就鲜得出其不意,有了虚设的陪衬,不得不说惊为天人。

真!的!很!贵! 4000和6000的菜是一样的,只是配酒有差。4000的没什么不好的。还有一个全明星菜单卖8888,我,并吃不起……反正我会找时间再吃UVB,因为吃过的人会这样想:Paul Pairet is a f***ing genius. 

插播一则道听途说的小道消息,据说米其林指南的大BOSS昨晚夜访 UV,有传闻哥们去过的餐厅都是三星。哈哈哈哈哈哈!

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Avrg. Cost:RMB4000-8888

2. L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Go for it if you are looking for impeccable consistency and top 5 wine lists in Shanghai, a casual yet upscale atmosphere that offers you two full pages of a la carte options beyond a few set menus (plus desserts), last but not the least, the all time BEST roasted chicken in Shanghai. Second Service after 8:30pm is strongly recommended. Less crowded, much more relaxed with special menus staring from 388 rmb only!! Hoooray! 

有无懈可击的稳定出品和大约是高级餐厅里top 5的酒单,并不强迫你点套餐set menu的休闲氛围,以及全上海最好吃的烤鸡和餐前面包篮,没有之一。平时太满,推荐8点半以后Second Service,人少、安静,还能点到只有这样的特殊时段才有的、388块起跳的特价菜单!!!

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It's a miracle how L'Atelier and Chef Robuchon managed to retain the same high standards while taking over a critical number of major capitals of the world (com'on it's not a central kitchen business. ) Great team, strong leaders, strict processes, and a dedicated heart...I guess this is the formula. 

足迹遍布全球的JR,不仅是美食家津津乐道的经典食府,更是法国菜大规模饮食文化输出的先锋前哨。但最可怕的地方在于,那么多店,平均出品水准却高得惊人(又不是中央厨房啊!!!)。哈哈哈,于是很多粉丝常常戏称L'Atelier为“The French KFC”,实则表扬它出品稳定。

Avrg. Cost:RMB1000-2000

3. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo

Yes, it's famous for the truffle and being over the top. But Otto e Mezzo is one of the most earnest starred restaurants since last year. I've tried pretty much every dish on the menu and have seen improvements almost everywhere, from the art of plating to the accuracy expression of ingredients...trust me, it's been esclated to something else. Note that my last visit was conducted while the chef was on vacay. 

是的,Otto e Mezzo 的松露很出名,也贵得出名。来过很多次,菜基本都吃过,可能是我个人体验过米其林颁布之后,全上海最“吊了根筋”的餐厅之一:从摆盘到对食材表达的精准性,都有相当进步,而且还是在主厨不在的情况下,真令人刮目相待。

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The cooking never steers away from the earthiness rooted in Italian cuisine. You won't go wrong with Veal Milanese, but prepare to be wowed by the taste of Mushroom Tortellini! And yes, I would love to reward myself with a bowl of pasta topped with generous portion of white truffle as the season approaches...

意大利菜与生俱来的地气,厨师并不回避,米兰小牛排太好吃了,吃不完可以打包回家,但最惊喜的是蘑菇小馄饨,霸气的鲜味,柔韧的皮子,我一人能吃一盆。就是有点贵,好在可以单点。松露季开始的时候,我要奖励自己去吃松露刨得像雪片一样的意大利面。

Avrg. Cost:RMB1500-2500

4. Bo Shanghai

French interpretation of the "Big Eight Chinese Cuisines" is a tough nut to crack, and soon to be shifted to Italian! The kitchen did a neat job to digest the idea. Good news, there is BREAD! And Menu has probably changed since my last visit. 

Honestly, I'm more excited to learn the newly refurbished Daimon Bistro next door, has reopened its door last week, with a more affordable menu (200-300 price range excluding cocktails). Can't wait to visit again!

开业时吃过一次,叙事宏大,用法餐的方式重构中国8大菜系经典元素,这么难啃的饼,厨房团队也是硬吞下去了,而且听说马上要从法餐改意大利餐了,特别期待再访。菜没毛病,唯一的缺点是不给面包,我这种美国人训练出来的大胃王实在是……然后我写了篇文章、很诚实地讲我没吃饱,再后来……就听说现在发面包了,啊,想吃!不过老实讲我其实更期待外面那家重新装修了的 Daimon Bistro (推荐榜单),价格亲民(只要2、300,鸡尾酒贵),上周低调soft opening,听说菜品有变,过几日回访。

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Avrg. Cost:RMB1500-2000

5. PHENIX Eatery & Bar

My go-to place for western cuisine in Shanghai, PHENIX features Modern French cuisine with an Australian twist: a strong focus on seasonal ingredients with light seasoning and elegant plating. Chef Michael Wilson, one of the most talented and dedicated people I've met, has come a long way since his first star last year. How much better has PHENIX become? Go see for yourself. 

我应该是全上海去 PHENIX去的最多的人,西餐食堂。米其林颁布前,上海最吊了根筋的餐厅之二,作为厨师Michael的好朋友,我亲眼见证了他一路的努力和进步,现在的菜真的比去年摘星时好太多了;不信的人,自己去吃吃看。

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Price is fairly reasonable, a meal only sets you back at 4-500 rmb not including wine. Fall menu is out soon, but black cod and langoustine on the current menu are not to be missed, and regulars like beef tartare and duck breast are my all-time favorites. Be sure to try the famed lobster pasta , once a special now an regular item on the menu. For stinky cheese lovers, get the black truffle Madeleine before the pairing Camembert Cheese runs out!

口味清淡、摆盘养眼的新式法国菜,价格适中,不带酒大约4、500。秋季菜单快了,目前菜单上的黑鳕鱼、海鳌虾还是很值得一试,其他还有一些常规菜如牛肉塔塔、鸭胸也是必点,(我一手捧起来的)龙虾意面换了这个小龙虾意面的菜谱。哦你也可以去试试那个凶残的鸭脖子腿肉香肠啊很好吃的,或者趁 Camembert Cheese 还没用光,配黑松露玛德琳吃!

Avrg. Cost:RMB500-800(Lunch set starting from RMB188)

6. Yong Fu

Since the release of the first Guide last year, I've always been telling people that the Michelin Guide should not miss Yong Fu. PROVED NOT WRONG eh!

Nestled in one of the long established luxury hotels from Old Shanghai era, it's decidely high-end from inside-out. But I've always opted for the home cooking dishes - delibrately skipping expensive seafood dishes - that will cut your bill under 500 per person. Perfect spot for fine Chinese food and suitable for family dinners. I have taken my parents there. 

一直在念“米其林应该要有甬府啊”,总算不负众望!到访频率最高的中餐厅之一。

一家很适合带父母去吃的、看起来十分高级、其实也很高级的店。注重细节,连水果盘都做得非常用心,最近去吃到了极清甜的当季石榴,开心。

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FYI, Ningbo cuisine is a close relative of Shanghainese. I'm obssessed with the creamy Taro Stew with Deep-fried Lard, kept warm on top of a burning candle, still simmering as it's served to the table! Don't miss the smelly, fishy tilefish soup, a true delight for someone grew up eating "stinky fermented seafood". 

Huge portion easy for the group, cozy environment and excellent service, seriously what's more to improve at Yong Fu? Not much. Event the after dinner fruit selection was close to d-e-v-i-n-e.

通常我是当家常饭去吃的,大菜和大件海鲜一般很少点,猪油渣芋艿羹,一段时间不吃就会馋得浑身痒,腥得要死的带鱼羹我也很喜欢(汤羹类都会配暖炉,上桌时还在微微冒泡),还特别喜爱它家肉饼炖蛋,巨!下!饭!分量超级大,长远不去,问服务员小姑娘“你们阿是分量变大了”,答曰“我们一直都是这样的呀~”。 

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Make sure you order their Roasted Bok-choy in Ningbo style, and your food will be served in a plate with live goldfish swimming around! 100% Instagram-worthy.

环境十分舒适,服务相当得体,东西好吃摆盘还美得要死,在中餐里绝对出类拔萃,推荐你们点宁波烤菜,会端上来一个下面养了金金鱼游来游去的盘子……比街边那些网红店值得发朋友圈多了去了。

Avrg. Cost: RMB250-800

7. Jean-Georges

My emotional attachment to Jean-Georges is mostly linked to the years spent in New York. I even grieved a bit when they missed the stars last year. The restaurant rarely changes the menu probably due to consistency control, but the brunch is a real killer. I am definitely going back for the brunch, and also for the fabulous daytime view.

因为我的纽约情结,个人非常有感情的一家店,去年没拿到星还惋惜了很久。但今年早些时候回访,感觉一般性。可能是出于稳定性考虑,菜单很少换,淀粉炸弹的Brunch 倒是十分出彩,加上白天店里真的很美,找机会回去吃吧。

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Avrg. Cost: RMB1000-1500

8. Seven Son

My go-to spot for Cantonese food before Ming Court opened next to Hong Qiao airport. Quote from one of my dining buddies: "I'll even rate it 3 star when it's played out well..."

明阁没有开之前,粤菜我一般会去吃这家。Quote from 饭友红豆:“我觉得家全七福发挥好的时候绝对是有三星水准的!”

Avrg. Cost: RMB400-800

9. Old Jesse on Tianping Rd (Bib Gourmand)

People, espeically my fellow Shanghainese diners, tend to underestimated Old Jesse for it being a chain restaurant. But this location of Old Jesse has won my heart over and over again. Their Homecooked Yellow CroakersBaby Shanghai Green stir-fried with ham slices and bean curdsCold Salty Chicken are my top 3 must-order. But nothing beats the soysauce-based vegetable pork wonton soup, 30 Kuai for a huge bowl filled with tempting smell of lard.

必须为老吉士天平路店打 Call!我的上海菜食堂。因为是连锁被群众误解很深的一家店,天平路店堪称教科书级别上海家常菜,家烧小黄鱼,鸡毛菜火腿百叶丝,咸鸡是必点老三样。以及我觉得葱油拌面比东泰祥好吃咸肉菜饭也值得一试。

不过最好吃的必须是酱油汤菜肉大馄饨,30一大碗,偶尔会叫邻趣外卖,打开裹得严严实实的外卖盒,扑面而来一股恶狠狠的猪油香……吃完了汤还可以下个光面(我试过了,汤太香了舍不得倒……好吃的)。

啊啊啊真的是太喜欢了!

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Avrg. Cost: RMB100-200

Others to watch

Unfortunately, many restaurants still can't jump on the last train, though some of them are the ones that some of us felt 'truly deserved'. Meanwhile, loads of new openings are soildering up here in Shanghai, aiming to take over a spot on the list next year.

3-star T'ang Court's little sister Ming Court just held a low-key opening at the Cordis Hotel next to Hongqiao Airport. Dined there once with friends thanks to a 3 hour layover. And...it lives up to the lengendary of a most consistent high-end cantonese chain. Deng's (邓记食园), my favorite Sichuanese spot in town, was absolutely not to be missed, however it might be gone at the end of the month due to lease issue. *Sighs*

Speaking of western food, I would still like to express my love and support for Commune Social and NAPA on the bund. Plus Highline at Ascott Apartment serves the best Californian food I've had outside the US.  

当然,每年还是有很多餐厅挤不上末班车,也有不少“我们自己觉得应该上榜的餐厅”,由于种种原因未能上榜,还有更多尚在酝酿之中的新餐厅,瞄准下一年发起冲击,这里也稍微带简单盘点。

三星唐阁的小妹妹明阁,在虹桥机场隔壁低调开业,配朋友吃了一次 layover 的飞机餐,除了楼上酒店新装修味道有点大,没毛病。我一直都很推崇、当川菜食堂来吃的邓记就不讲了……不过这家店可能很快就要木有了,😔 哎。

西餐方面,还是要撑一撑我非常喜欢的两家店,进入了推荐榜单但无缘星级的 Commune Social 和外滩的 NAPA,溢美之词真的讲过太多了,一个随意一个高端,非常接轨国际的整体体验。此外,淮海路的 Highline 也是我很中意的休闲美式西餐,好久没回去吃甜品啦!

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I've been long expecting this new casual concept Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, after two visits, the food lives up to the names, Pierre Gagnaire and Chef Chapel. French Consession's AKMEand its upstairs Cantonese sister property Ji Pin Xuan are also considered 2 strong contenders next year.

Other notable projects in the pipeline include Yannick Alleno's new bistro, NYC Marea'sShanghai outpost, and the joint effort of Jason Atherton and Editon Hotel, to be unveiled early next year (rumor says Scott Melvin from beloved Commune Social will be helming the project).

和 L'Atelier 定位相似,走"大师背书休闲路线"的Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire ,之前动静也是很大,出品比较中规中矩,去了两次,第二次各方面都有明显提升。毕竟是新店,各方面调整还是需要时间。名门之后的主厨,又是顶了 PG 的名号,即便是休闲路数,水准也是不好掉下来的 ,法国人那点爱面子和我们上海人还是挺像的。

开在法租界的 AKME ,包括楼上的粤菜吉品轩(还没吃……)明年应该也是有利的竞争选手。至于没开幕但值得注意的项目,包括著名法国厨师 Yannick Alleno 传说中的新 Bistro,纽约我最爱的意大利菜 Marea 的上海分店,以及 Jason Atherton 和未揭幕的Edition 酒店的餐饮合作项目(据说主厨会是  Commune Social 的 Scott Melvin。)

What's Next?

So, what's next? Localization? The Guide was created for the travellers but as we've observed from earlier expansions to Singapore and Hong Kong, trust and support from local community stands as a strong endorsement. Street food? Maybe. 

The unknown future,

The unarrived and the unpredictable, 

Enjoy the meal and the Michelin show. 

那么,下一步呢?米其林指南本是为旅行者所设,但随着时代变迁,赢得本地食客认可,亦是摆在米其林面前最重要的课题,在香港、新加坡和日本的本土化尝试,可以作为前车之鉴。如何深入邻里,纳入更多道地上海美食,更多上海人爱吃、爱去的日常餐厅,甚至,步香港与新加坡后尘,将街头小吃纳入评星体系。这一切,我们只能猜测。

但未来二字,有趣在扑朔迷离,

未知未至的将来,且吃且珍惜。

▲  ran into PP right before the press conference

▲ ran into PP right before the press conference

Written & Edited by:喜北 aka Xiaoyi

Translated to English by: Judy

Daimon: Chinese Fusion (that actually) Liked by a Chinese Foodie

Daimon: Chinese Fusion (that actually) Liked by a Chinese Foodie

Ones to Watch: Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, Akme, Seul & Seul

Ones to Watch: Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, Akme, Seul & Seul